The learning curve of large format

[Bernice Loui]

IMO, start the LF learning curve with 4x5. It takes several years of constantly using a view camera and a few Hundred sheets of film before the image maker Begins to gain competence with using a view camera. This is why starting the LF learning curve with 8x10 is not ideal for these reasons and more.

Being proficient at using a view camera is much like playing a musical instrument to similar, it takes practice, practice, practice and more practice to get any where with being proficient with a view camera.

Being skilled at using a view camera is far more than just the mechanical and motions of setting up the camera and all that, it is much about learning how to interpret a 3D world of human vision into something expressive and meaningful rendered as a 2D image using shape, form, texture, light, shadow and more. One of the GOOD things about continued view camera use, it has the ability to teach producing the expressive image with a single sheet of film.

Waste zero sheets of film if possible. Back in the 8x10 color transparency days when each sheet of processed color transparency 8x10 film cost $10+, 1980's U$D, that shutter never cycled until every possible assurance the image in mind was ready. This discipline has continued with me this day applied to phone or digital cameras. One frame, and a second as a back up if needed.



Bernice

Hi,

I started with black and white 8x10 almost two months ago. A lot of frustration but also a lot of things learned.
I went through 30 sheets more or less, of which probably 1-2 of which I am happy with (technique and composition).

Nothing, I just wanted feed on how steep the learning curve is.

I know it's never going to be flat.

[Leszek Vogt]

Agree with Bernice. Standardization and reliable results is the initial quest. Once you get there, it's good to polish yer style and deviate.

I've had some challenges with my equipment (light leaks), but I know I'll overcome this. It's a process....and intend to deviate soon :>). Best of luck.

Les

[Bernice Loui]

It's been said by some of the great musical instrument teachers that a student is to practice and learn instrument exercises (scales and such) and introductory pieces of music early on in their musical endeavor. After much time and struggle and achievement has been had, the students gives up just practicing learning technique and is expected to interpret - express what the composer has shared.

This is the same major step for anyone serious about expressive image making with a view camera or any other image recording device.


Bernice

It's a process....and intend to deviate soon :>). Best of luck.

Les

[LabRat]

First and foremost is routine... That you can carry, keep track your gear, and not feel too burdened with it so you can keep fresh eyes open, have camera operations so well ingrained where you do everything subconsciously, keep organized so you don't waste time trying to find your stuff etc, have experience to know what worked for you in the past and what didn't, and imagination of what could be or could be found... Then bring it all home and start the process (es) that will allow your vision to hang on a wall...

How long does this take to integrate inside you??? However long it does...

Start and continue the process and it will tell you sooner or later...

Steve K

[Charles S]

On the checklist question:

Here you go. I shoot mainly portraits so I don't use all of the movements
https://www.dropbox.com/s/epb6qjg3my...list.docx?dl=0
I's be interested to see other's as well

[Dan Fromm]

I'd like to see someone's checklist.

For a Speed Graphic

01: set up tripod
02: put camera on tripod, pointing in the subject's general direction
03: open the camera
03: pull front standard to infinity stop
04: if necessary, drop bed
05: level camera. I use a Manfrotto ball leveler
06: attach cable release to body shutter release (if back shutter will be used) or to the lens' shutter
07: if the lens is in shutter, open the shutter
08: open the diaphragm all the way
09: open folding viewing hood
10: open back shutter
11: focus and compose. If necessary, relocate the tripod slightly and re-level the camera
12: meter the subject
13: if the lens is in shutter and its shutter is to be used to take the exposure, close and cock the shutter
14: stop the lens down
15: if the rear shutter is to be used, wind the shutter to the right slit width, set the tension
16: insert sheet film holder or insertion type roll holder or remove Graflok back and attach roll holder
15: withdraw dark slide
18: take the exposure
19: insert dark slide

and now we can close the camera and move on

20: remove film holder
21: in necessary, replace Graflok back
22: close folding viewing hood
23: if necessary, raise bed to the normal position
24: if necessary, raise bed to the normal position
25: remove cable release
26: push front standard as far back as it will go, lock it
27: use the focusing knobs to move the bed rails as far back as possible
28: close the camera
29: detach camera from tripod
30: collapse the tripod

If shooting hand-held, skip steps 1, 2 and 30. If the camera won’t close with the lens to be used or if the lens to be used isn’t on the camera, attach the lens or swap it with the one on the camera after step 4, reverse process after step 25.

I rarely use my camera's front rise, its only generally useful movement, so didn't mention it. When rise has been used, the front standard has to be recentered before step 26.

[ManWithManyHobbies]

On the checklist question: Here you go.

Thanks very much. I've never shot LF, just getting started. I thought it would be interesting to see what a checklist might look like. I pretty much figured it would contain those items. One thing I didn't expect to see in the checklist were the bellows factor, reciprocity, filters. I'll have to read about those. I will be using a Wista 45N.

[Bernice Loui]

Think about what the finished print might be as the camera is being used to create that print. Keep in mind the camera is a part of the expressive image making process with the finished print being the goal of using the camera.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=DQT_rzI1Xdw

At the beginning of the LF learning curve, using the camera can be over whelming with details of each and every required step easily forgotten. This makes visualizing and thinking of what the finished print needs to be more difficult. This is also why the entire print making process from loading film into film holders to dry mounting the finished print is important to achieve expressive images.



Bernice

Thanks very much. I've never shot LF, just getting started. I thought it would be interesting to see what a checklist might look like. I pretty much figured it would contain those items. One thing I didn't expect to see in the checklist were the bellows factor, reciprocity, filters. I'll have to read about those. I will be using a Wista 45N.

[Dan Fromm]

Thanks very much. I've never shot LF, just getting started. I thought it would be interesting to see what a checklist might look like. I pretty much figured it would contain those items. One thing I didn't expect to see in the checklist were the bellows factor, reciprocity, filters. I'll have to read about those. I will be using a Wista 45N.

Bellows factor matters only for near subjects, reciprocity for long exposures. If you shoot landscapes without using your shutter's T or B settings, neither should matter.

[aaronnate]

20 years and still moving up the curve. Granted I'm not burning film like some folks but I am still learning.