How to adhere a LF film positive to paper or polyester support?

[sanking]

Sandy, there is a mounting film called Optimount which is double sided and optically clear. It’s main use is adhering the face of a print to the back of a piece of plexiglass without obstructing your view of the print. If you are mounting film for display, have you considered a light box instead?

Greg,

Thanks for your input.

Light box will not work for the project I have in mind. Optimount might work, however, will look into it.

Best,

Sandy

[Drew Wiley]

Just look up what the pro framing guilds think of sprays. They have a reputation for prematurely ending careers in a pine box six feet under. I don't know the outgassing effects on silver or carbon black; but I've never thing anything more capable of accelerating color photo dye fading in combination with UV than these sprays. They were intended for temporary applications.

[Pere Casals]

I may propose an alternative possibility I tested yesterday.

>> Take well expired and cheap FB (gloss) paper and fix/wash it. We can also bleach bad FB prints.

>> Place the paper and the film inside a tray filled with distilled water, ensure that paper or film has no air bubble.

>> Overlap and press. Perhaps a frame should ensure that the film borders are pressed to the paper, if paper/film not completely flat film may separate from paper.

>> Let it dry.

Perhaps the gelatin is the most noble glue we may find... and the Baryte on the FB is just nice.

Of course, it should be FB paper because RC won't dry as easy, as in that case water would be confined between to plastic layers.

[Pere Casals]

Just look up what the pro framing guilds think of sprays. They have a reputation for prematurely ending careers in a pine box six feet under.

Industrial facilities have to provide safe workstations for people breathing there during many years. Spending half a can of spray, to frame a personal work in a ventilated place, this won't kill you.

[Tin Can]

Pere I like your idea to test simple materials we all have.

Perhaps use our Seal Press to heat slightly and dry the combo after using a brayer or even a litho press.

I really do hate spray even with industrial vent hoods.

[Sfroza]

From the early 70's on there are unanswered questions with the use of spray adhesives and chromosome, liver, and respiratory damage. The research parallels both lead poisoning with both consumers and the environment and tobacco exposure and cancer by using junk science and obfuscation. I've worked in the weapons complex and aerospace all my life at times handling some very dangerous materials and I will not use spray adhesives.

Michael

[Pere Casals]

Perhaps use our Seal Press to heat slightly and dry the combo after using a brayer or even a litho press.

Yes... sure that the method requires extensive testing different choices to be practical.

[Drew Wiley]

Pere - Sandy is already an expert at float attaching gelatin materials. He has something else in mind. And doing anything heat-wise with plastics like polyester is a huge no-no for several reasons. Low-temp graphics layout waxes would be an exception; but for that very reason, they're quite temporary, intentionally removable. And Pere, lots of industrial and military workplaces, and even research facilities, have done an excellent job indeed of prematurely killing their workers. I've seen it all, repeatedly. Of course, there were more humane ways of going quickly, like when whatever they were spraying outright blew up the facility. I've had my own workplace shaken worse than an earthquake by several such explosions in the neighborhood over the years. So that's a good alternative if you like to smoke and don't want to slowly die of lung caner. Grab a can of something labeled "highly flammable" and smoke at the same time. Or, if you choose not to smoke, you can still slowly die from all the nasties in the chemicals themselves. It's not a pretty sight.

[bob carnie]

I have some LF film positives, 5X7 and 11X14 size, mostly on 7 mil polyester base. I would like to adhere these to thick rag mat board as a final support, or perhaps to a 14-20 mil white polyester base. Is there a very clear hot press roll or sheets that I could use for this with a dry mount press. I considered regular dry mount sheets but these do not appear to be perfectly clear and this might affect the look of the positive seen on the paper through the mounting. Or is there some type of clear cold mount adhesive that might work better?

Thanks for any suggestions. Note that I do have a dry mount press to use if that will work for this project.

Sandy

Sandy I think you would be looking for transparent optically clear face mount which is cold application, Any lab that does face mount to plexi could do this for you. I do not do this in my shop but I am positive a larger custom lab in your area could do this.

Bob

[sanking]

Sandy is already an expert at float attaching gelatin materials. He has something else in mind. And doing anything heat-wise with plastics like polyester is a huge no-no for several reasons.

Drew,

I have some expertise in limited areas, say in carbon printing, but I have very limited experience in mounting, and there is no literature available about doing exactly what I want to do, which is to mount a carbon image developed directly on the gelatin side of film base, and then mounting the base side of the film to a polyester base.That would give a polyester substrate + polyester base of the film with the carbon print bonded (chemically) with the emulsion of the film base.

Being able to do this with heat mounting with a dry mount press would be ideal if possible.

I posed the question with regard to mounting film with the understanding that the issues involved are similar to what I really want to do, not to confuse but to avoid complication.

Sandy