Unable to achieve focus

[Joe O'Hara]

I meant, "lens-to-subject distance". Sorry.

[Tin Can]

Yes as someone already posted achieve a calculated bellows draw for magnification and move the whole camera to and fro. Then futz with the rear focus.

Took me days to shoot my magic mushroom

Winter work

[Andrew Plume]

My lenses for LF macro/still life work:-

135mm - 4 x 5;
180 - 5 x 7; and
210 - 10 x 8

Andrew

[Tin Can]

Yes and many here told me I HAD to use expensive Macro lenses.

I want 2 of them but $$$$$$$

[Andrew Plume]

My thinking................

Initially, it's obvious that you go for a longer mm lens

But in fact I found that it was the shorter focal length lens that were easily the best

good luck and regards

Andrew

[Tin Can]

Agree

[Dan Fromm]

Randy, you'll die if you try closeup work and don't use a real macro lens. Die. You'll end up dead if you try it. Dead. Don't risk your life. Do it right right right or don't do it.

The shorter MP-4 Tominons (<= 75 mm) aren't the best but are quite usable. Not what the OP needs, but one of them might do for you, depending on what you're trying to accomplish. Same goes for Schneider Comparons, and the 150/5.6's cells are direct fits in a #0. Same goes for most enlarging lenses -- not, in my experience, f/4.5 Raptars -- but not all have cells that are direct fits in shutters.

Joe, for all film-to-subject distances but 4 focal lengths plus the lens' internodal distance -- this is the minimum -- there are two pairs of extensions (also lens-to-subject distances) at which the subject will be in focus. One at lower magnification (extension < lens-to-subject distance), the other at higher (extension > lens-to-subject distance). This is why setting extension to get the desired magnification and then moving the camera to focus is recommended.

If you start out with the subject approximately in focus, fiddling a little with magnification by moving either standard can work, but overdo it with either and you'll be lost.

We don't get into trouble when working at "normal" distances because lens-to-subject distance is much longer than the extension available.

[ndwgolf]

Heres my first attempt
Chamonix 8x10 Kowa Graphic 360mm Ilford HP5+ Developed in LC29
F9
1/10
Bellows @760mm

[Tin Can]

Awesome!

Heres my first attempt
Chamonix 8x10 Kowa Graphic 360mm Ilford HP5+ Developed in LC29
F9
1/10
Bellows @760mm

[Joe O'Hara]

Thanks, Dan, I learned something today!

And a very nice rose portrait there, ndwgolf.