Chamonix tips and tricks?

[andreios]

Friends, I managed to purchase a 045-F1 a while ago (I hope I got the numbers right - it is the first model with assymetric tilt). Now, strange as it may sound, it took me a couple of weeks to find enough time to take it out to the "field" and try it.
Now, coming from different LF cameras (besides some Sinars, an 8x10 Tachihara and a half plate toyo) I found this kind of camera quite tricky to work with. All those knobs which sort of let everything loose... Yeah, freezing temperature didn't help either...

So, my question is to you, seasoned chamonix users, what are your tricks, how to make life with the camera easier / the setup quicker, to get the full potential from this lovely thing?

Thank you

[scm]

See if this answers any of your questions:

[Larry Gebhardt]

See if this answers any of your questions:

I have an N1 version, so no asymmetric tilt. Other than that I think they are very similar.

In the video SCM missed that the camera has front tilt locks so rise and fall do not result in tilt (unless you don't use the locks). You can tilt by sliding the locks out of the way and then tilting without loosening the knobs. This was mentioned in the video comments, but should be said in case you didn't read the comments.

The lack of detents isn't an issue to me. I have tested it and it sets up square with all the locks, which I think would be the point of the detents. But I don't have the asymmetric tilt to worry about. If your camera doesn't setup square there are tiny set screws on the rear tilt locks.

I use a 450mm lens on mine with an extension board, which is a nice option if you like longer lenses.

With longer lenses (300mm for me) I pull the rear standard all the way back. It squares up easier, balances on the tripod better, and results in less racking of the focus knob (quicker setup).

With short lenses mount them on the front few holes and slide the back forward (all the way is fastest since it squares up naturally). Same idea to minimize the amount of focus turning and balances the camera. It also keeps the camera out of your image with really wide lenses and fall.

Leave the front standard knobs loose when you fold it. That lets you setup without loosening them, saving a step.

Practice inside where it's warm.

[Greg]

I marked the screw holes on the baseboard with the lenses I have and use, takes the guesswork away from having to remember which hole is best for the lens you're using.

I put a large rubber band around the camera when it's folded up, no need to over tighten the two rear knobs.

Get a GG protector, a simple home made one will work fine.

Determine the on-center marks for the front lens board with colored dots, one color for on-center holes and the other color for non off-center holes.

If you can, get OEM Chamonix film holders. I got a super deal on ten TOYO holders so was a no brainer for me to go with the TOYOs. For my larger format Chamonix cameras, I use fewer holders so went with OEM Chamonix holders and never regretted it.

If you run into a problem, just Email Hugo.

Be careful about buying non OEM Chamonix lens boards. Some work fine, some don't (lots of discussion on this topic in the FORUM).

I'd invest in a 4x5 Chamonix reflex finder. Money well spent in my opinion. For me makes setting up the 4x5 Chamonix much easier and faster for me.

Consider acquiring a used Linhof 4x5 Multifocus view finder. Makes previsualizing your shots so much easier in the field, especially as you add lenses to your Chamonix outfit.

Watch others reviewing Chamonix cameras on YouTube once, you might just learn a new thing or two. But then forget their opinions and develop your own opinions from just plain using the camera.

[Two23]

Yes, just as the back standard has sliding locks on the bottom, so does the front standard. Annoying when a guy is doing a review on a camera but misses something as obvious as that. I agree with above suggestions . The camera is simple to operate and clean as needed.


Kent in SD

[pepeguitarra]

My first reaction was: Get the Chamonix 45F-2. It is the same Phillip's design that The Intrepid 4x5 uses. The F2 has two separate knows to control front standard tilt and raise/fall instead of one, that is easier. The asymmetrical tilt/swing is in the rear standard, you can focus with just one movement. It is wonderful. Have to get use to tie knobs and lose them. Practice. Once you do, it is easy.

[Winger]

The first year I had mine, I did a shot a week project on instant film (Fuji, mostly). I did shoot other than those, but that made me set it up and shoot something every week. It did help me get used to it.

[ic-racer]

Does yours have the circular focus knob under the middle of the rear standard? If so, what I did was to put an index mark on the knob and determine how many millimeters of travel equaled each 'hour' of rotation. I use that information to determine f-stop based on focal spread. For example on mine an entire rotation (12 hours) is about f-32.

[Laminarman]

I'm still learning on mine, and have one lens, a 210. I have the F2, only a few days now. I just screwed into the front hole for the front standard, never thought about the others. I had to rack out focus quite a bit, and never really thought that I could just slide the rear standard out. Sometimes I miss the obvious so I appreciate that trick. I really like this camera. It's something to be proud of and it looks great in my office near the fireplace.

[Larry Gebhardt]

Does yours have the circular focus knob under the middle of the rear standard? If so, what I did was to put an index mark on the knob and determine how many millimeters of travel equaled each 'hour' of rotation. I use that information to determine f-stop based on focal spread. For example on mine an entire rotation (12 hours) is about f-32.

Is that lens independent? Seems like a great technique.