Can bellows be stretched?

**scm** · 17-Jan-2019, 13:53

Originally Posted by pepeguitarra

I have purchased stuff from ecbuyonline2008. They are willing to go the extra mile to help and keep you satisfied. Try them first.

Rudy is ecbuyonline2008

**Jim Galli** · 17-Jan-2019, 15:31

What would happen if you "rounded" the corners of the frame just a little more at each corner with a sander?

**tgtaylor** · 17-Jan-2019, 23:42

I was thinking that the OP's bellows was tapered but I measured the hardware for the 8x10 MII and the front frame measured 158.7mm - which is the same measurements om both the front and back frame of the 4x5 Robos - and the back frame measured 288.13mm. So the Robos uses square bellows while the MII uses tapered bellows. If I was the OP, I'd measure both frames to determine if the bellows should be tapered but with the tiny difference as pictured, I doubt that. Either the bellows was not cut square or incorrectly installed, or the back frame is off slightly.

The Robos is a monorail and the MII a field camera. A tapered bellows permits the bellows to fold more compactly - an advantage for the field.

Thomas

**rbultman** · 18-Jan-2019, 03:57

Originally Posted by Michael Roberts

FWIW, when I order bellows from Rudy now, I send him the frames so he can send the bellows back already mounted. If I am ordering a new bellows for a vintage camera, I cut new frames that duplicate the originals (just a safeguard against losing the originals). I pre-drill mounting holes to match those in the front and rear frames, assemble the new frames, then disassemble and label each piece before shipping (saves substantially on shipping to China). I make the frames so they can be joined with a single, recessed screw in each joint. This has worked well for me so far. I got tired of receiving bellows that did not fit.

This sounds like what I should have done from the start, but I didn't know this was an option. It does not seem to me that the bellows are going to fit as is. They are sending me a video showing how to install, but this seems like a square peg/round hole problem. If I can't, by some feat of magic, get this to work, hopefully I can just send the frames and bellows back and they can make and install new ones that will fit.

**rbultman** · 18-Jan-2019, 04:00

Originally Posted by Jim Galli

What would happen if you "rounded" the corners of the frame just a little more at each corner with a sander?

I'm not sure and I am hesitant to make this modification. If I was going to do anything along these lines, I'd make a new frame that fit the new bellows and then make an adapter.

**rbultman** · 18-Jan-2019, 04:02

Originally Posted by tgtaylor

I was thinking that the OP's bellows was tapered...

Yes, the original bellows were tapered. The original bellows had been taped along the edges, presumably for light leaks, so they did not collapse as nicely as I am sure they did when new.

**tgtaylor** · 18-Jan-2019, 10:15

I'm not familiar with that camera but it being an 8x10 it would certainly be tapered with a 4x5 front and sufficient opening for 8x10 at the back which makes me think that all extension bellows would have to be 4x5 to match the opening of the bellows attached to the camera. So if I wanted to use a 3000mm lens on my camera, I would need to attach 2 900mm 4x5 bellows to the 1200mm 8x10 long bellows. Odd looking and makes me wonder at the character of the light that finally makes it to the film plane.

If you're sure you have the correct frames, you could send Rudy the dimensions so that they can cut it to the correct size.

Thomas