Can bellows be stretched?

[rbultman]

I bought new bellows from ecbuyonline2008 for a Calumet C1 8x10 green monster. This seems to be one of their "standard" bellows.

I removed the old bellows from the camera and the front and rear frames from the old bellows. I successfully installed the bellows onto the front frame. The rear of the bellows, however, is too small for the frame. I am wondering if the bellows could be stretched to fit onto the frame. I probably need 3/8" on the diagonal. I was thinking of making a stretcher that could be cranked open via a screw to slowly stretch the bellows until they would fit the frame, sort of like a shoe stretcher. Does this even seem reasonable?

Does anyone have a better idea? I also thought of shaving down the frame until the bellows fit, or making a smaller frame that would fit, but I'm afraid that the mounting holes would no longer line up. Several existing holes are close to the outside of the frame.

I have contacted the supplier, but they have not responded.

Attached are pictures showing the dilemma.

Regards,
Rob

[Willie]

You modify a board stretcher as used by new hires at construction sites. Should work just as well for what you need.

Get it replaced - the only sure solution.

[rbultman]

You modify a board stretcher as used by new hires at construction sites. Should work just as well for what you need.

Get it replaced - the only sure solution.

I was going to use the wire stretcher from work, but I don't have a metric Crescent wrench to adjust it with.

They just contacted me about rectifying it, so let's hope it all works out.

[LabRat]

Unless you made a new frame for it, no...

Bellows don't like to be stretched too much for reasons like opening and closing them expands and contracts them in size, so overstretch in now will cause them to expand past the damage point, and you don't want to damage the inner net, as this is structural and it's strength. ..

Replace, or replace the frames...

Steve K

[Willie]

Yes, my answer was tongue-in-cheek. Called my Uncle and asked him as I thought it could be done. Answer was "get the right size" because you won't be surprised later after shooting to find light leaks, splitting and problems that only show up after you process the film. Do it once - do it right.

He reminded me of the first day helping frame an outbuilding with him on the farm. Sent me to get the board stretcher... took me awhile to figure why all the guys were smirking and laughing when I came back from the Lumber Supply store. (you would think the lumber sales guys would tell me it wasn't real, instead of "they are on back order")

[Michael Roberts]

They just contacted me about rectifying it, so let's hope it all works out.

Rob, I have also had this problem with Rudy's bellows. It seems there is little QC; there is always time to do things over, but not right the first time. Paying for shipping multiple times gets expensive.

In any event, from your pics, it looks like the original bellows was mounted o/s the frame. Is the new bellows big enough to glue inside the frame or to the front face of the frame? I have been able to successfully make this adjustment before, using Contact Cement and stapling. After installing the rear bellows frame, I used Photographer's Tape to tape the joint between the rear frame and the rear bellows frame to prevent any light leaks.

Just a suggestion. YMMV.

[rbultman]

Yes Michael, I think I can glue it from the inside instead of the outside, but I haven't tried that yet. I can't think of any downsides since I think the light-trapping interface would be the same. I'm not sure if it would have any impact on folding ability of the bellows overall. Rudy suggested that I glue the sides on the outside and the top and bottom from the inside, but that just doesn't seem like it would work. Thanks for the idea.

[Michael Roberts]

FWIW, when I order bellows from Rudy now, I send him the frames so he can send the bellows back already mounted. If I am ordering a new bellows for a vintage camera, I cut new frames that duplicate the originals (just a safeguard against losing the originals). I pre-drill mounting holes to match those in the front and rear frames, assemble the new frames, then disassemble and label each piece before shipping (saves substantially on shipping to China). I make the frames so they can be joined with a single, recessed screw in each joint. This has worked well for me so far. I got tired of receiving bellows that did not fit.

[pepeguitarra]

I have purchased stuff from ecbuyonline2008. They are willing to go the extra mile to help and keep you satisfied. Try them first.

[tgtaylor]

I second the recommendation above. I recently purchased a 900mm long bellows from Rudy so that I can use the 760mm Apo Nikkor on the Robos without having to use a 2d front standard and tripod. Here is the reply I got back from Juki before placing the order:

If you can measure the bellow's outer dimension, it is better. Because 153x153mm and 160x160mm opening TOYO 45G bellows are using the same lens boards: 158x158mm.

I measured the width of the standard Robos bellows and got 158.7mm so I ordered the 160mm wide bellows and had them install it on their Toyo frames which they will do at no extra charge. A 7mm extra width is significant and should allow for greater camera movements if nothing else.

Thomas