Two thumbs up.Originally Posted by Randy Moe
I second Zbigniew on eBay for almost any lensboard. LINHOF Technika boards however are a different thing. He does make Technika to any other lendboard adapter.
I highly suggest you look carefully for a very good working shutter.
I bought a few bad shutters until I got smart...
Thanks everyone for the advice.
I don't want to start a new thread so I will ask in this one. Is it ok to store the camera closed without a lens?
Here is how my camera came:
I'm just worried about dirt or dust getting into it but I'm not sure if that will actually happen. I plan on getting a 210mm lens and I think I know which one to get but just to make sure because there are so many variants. From my understanding the RODENSTOCK APO SINARON-S in 150, 180 and 210mm comes highly regarded.
I would like to get the RODENSTOCK APO SINARON-S 210mm version.
I found this one but the listing is confusing: Is it a "S" or "N" version?
https://www.ebay.com/itm/RODENSTOCK-...cf13%7Ciid%3A1
Also, what is a "white label" and what are your thoughts on this lens?
In addition, I found a Rodenstock Sironar N 180mm 5.6 lens for 1/3 of the price of the above lens.
https://www.ebay.com/itm/Near-MINT-S...p2047675.l2557
I know one is a 180 and the other a 210mm lens and one is "S" version (I think) and the other a "N" version but what do you guys suggest for a fist lens? Thanks.
Some lenses on some cameras can remain mounted on camera when folded.
If not get a second lensboard without hole or with hole and gaff tape it covered.
Tin Can
You've got great info on mounting modern lenses, but if you're an optical bottom feeder (like me) you may find yourself with an old brassie from the past millennia.
These may have a flange that fits on the outside of the lens board and is meant to be held in place with little brass wood screws.
The shutter screws directly into this flange so the trick is to get the shutter threads to bottom out so the settings and shutter release fittings are conveniently located.
This can be accomplished by marking the flange top dead center based on where to want your controls to be. Remove the flange and place it back on the lens board and mark where you want to start your screw holes.
Screw the flange in place with the flange TDC on top and mount the lens---everything should then be oriented as you desired.
"I would feel more optimistic about a bright future for man if he spent less time proving that he can outwit Nature and more time tasting her sweetness and respecting her seniority"---EB White
...and LINOS AG was bought by QIOPTIC in 2010
Beyond equipment, Qioptic offers a nice freeware version of their ray-tracing: http://www.qioptiq-shop.com/en/Optic...c-Screenshots/
Or you can cover it with kraft paper and tape it in place with fancy, easily removable masking tape.
Also, some lenses that won't fit with the camera folded will fit if you reverse the lens board usually---but not always--- if the back component is less proud than the front
If so, be sure you use a protective rear lens cap.
"I would feel more optimistic about a bright future for man if he spent less time proving that he can outwit Nature and more time tasting her sweetness and respecting her seniority"---EB White
The "white label" refers to a lens branded for a different company (in this case Sinar). The lens manufacturers produced lenses for other companies such as Linhof, Calumet, etc. In some instances these companies performed additional quality control checks - as in the case of Linhof - to insure performance standards. As a rule "house-branded" lenses sold for less than the corresponding line with the manufacturers label... although this is (was?) not the case with the Linhof select lines. The 180 you are looking at is not a Rodenstock but is a Schneider.
Joel
Um, y'r second link goes to a listing for a Schneider Symmar-S. Is that what you intended?
Also, some of our moderators think that posts here should be for the ages. eBay listings vanish after not very long, so these mods delete posts with links to eBay listings. If you save the links on archive.org and edit your post to replace the ephemeral links with the archived ones your post won't be removed.
This site has resources. If you go to https://www.largeformatphotography.info you'll find quite a lot to read and digest. Whatever you do, read this: https://www.largeformatphotography.i...ic-bullet.html. Most of us obsess about having the best gear. That's good clean fun but probably isn't worth the trouble. Good enough means what it says, and the difference between good enough and best is small.
The first post in this https://www.largeformatphotography.i...mainly)-lenses discussion will take you to a list of links to all sorts of information on LF, including lens' makers' catalogs. Again, read and digest.
Asking questions about equipment on a bulletin board is well and good, will get you replies from people eager to be helpful. What's wrong with the replies is that they usually reflect relatively limited knowledge and recommend what the poster knows and likes, not what it doesn't know but would like ...
Hi Hulk,
I have all of the APO Sironar-S lenses except the longest.
I originally had all of the APO Sironar-N lenses, but after buying a -S and comparing it, I decided to standardize on that series. The difference was obvious to me in some double-blind tests.
The SINARON-S lenses are the same but sold by SINAR for use on their cameras.
- Leigh
If you believe you can, or you believe you can't... you're right.
Leigh, Sinaron-S are like Sironar-N, Sinaron-SE are like Sironar-S, IIRC. SINAR nomenclature is a bit messing !!!
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