Developed 4 sheets of HP5-400 had issues with pinholes

**Steven Ruttenberg** · 2-Jan-2019, 02:14

More updates.

Been trying to figure out why around the periphery, the emulsion was completely gone at discrete points using the sp-445. What I figured out by accident, is that, even though you do the stop bath, fix, hypoclear, and 10 min plus rinse, developer I think, remains throughout the process, and then completely removes the emulsion. I wouldn't think it has anything to do with photo flo or stop, fix and hypo. I matched up the spots to the tabs on the holders and noticed pooled liquid where the emulsion was missing, when I gently wiped area, the emulsion under the spot came off while the rest of the emulsion was fine everywhere else. This was after hanging to dry.

I am gonna try taco method in sp-445 for 1 sheet of film. I am not digging on the film holders lately. Ar first they worked like a charm, but lately just a pita.

Hopefully all my trials will help someone out when they first start out.

**Willie** · 2-Jan-2019, 03:22

Have you contacted Formulary about the problems?
Let us know how they handle it.

**mrred** · 2-Jan-2019, 05:52

I use my own catechol-based developer, and have a few comments.

The white spots are deposits left behind. With the amounts you get and the absence with other developers, it's likely the water quality. Some films are more susceptible with certain developers than others. The catechol is a tanner which hardens the film. You likely won't be able to clean these spots out. If you have these problems and you are using distilled water, this developer / film combo may not be a usable choice for you.

The balck spots are pinholes likely caused by a stop bath. I don't use any stop bath. Water works fine.

**Steven Ruttenberg** · 2-Jan-2019, 10:23

I use distilled water. I will try a water stop bath and see if that eliminates pin holes. How long do you use water as stop bath?

**Fred L** · 2-Jan-2019, 10:41

I haven't used Pyrocat before (just PMK but getting some Pyrocat HD in glycol), but Ive never heard of any friends having this issue at all. I can only think, as some suggested, that it's related to the SPP and or water issues. if there was a bad batch from the Formulary, one would think it would have popped up here. good luck

**Alan9940** · 2-Jan-2019, 11:44

FWIW, I've used the SP-445 with Pyrocat-HD, WD2D+, and 510-Pyro and, though I've had other issues with this developing tank, white spots ain't one of 'em.

**mrred** · 2-Jan-2019, 12:41

30s to a minute. My developer is divided if you need to know that.

I usually use foma 100. In the past, I have had issues with it reacting with iron. Using distilled water cured that problem.

I don't ever remember having had a problem with HP5, but it's been a few years.

**Alan9940** · 2-Jan-2019, 16:23

Originally Posted by Steven Ruttenberg

I use distilled water. I will try a water stop bath and see if that eliminates pin holes. How long do you use water as stop bath?

I use distilled or RO water for all solutions and use 1/2 strength acetic acid with all pyro formulas; never has pinholes. Sorry, I know that doesn't mean much to your specific case, but thought I'd toss in my 2 cents.

**jmontague** · 2-Jan-2019, 16:55

Steve, are you using the latest generation holders in the SPP? I had issues with the earlier versions, but have not had issues with the latest holders. Occasionally, the tabs will scratch off some of the emulsion at the edge, but rarely.

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**Drew Wiley** · 2-Jan-2019, 17:32

Sometimes in cold weather, certain pyro ingredients tend to crystallize. Visually inspect your bottles for any suspended or settled particulate "snowflakes". Put your unmixed A&B bottles in a warming water jacket for awhile, then gently shake them, prior to making your working solution, if this tendency is suspected. It can indeed resemble hard water issues.