Use of slots on a Sinar's standard?

[Keith Pitman]

Also, the Sinar meter holder would attach to the slots:

https://www.ebay.com/itm/Sinar-Meter...0AAOSw3YNXYZtu

[Tin Can]

My faith in Switzerland has recovered!

[Drew Wiley]

Indeed. Who ever heard of a complete Swiss Army Knife without a Sinar camera folded somewhere in it, attached via the standard slot?

[LabRat]

I don't know how even a heavy lens could fall off unless the locking lever is lifted. Maybe I'm lucky, but I've toted Sinars thousands of mile through the mtns without losing a lens that way, though I'll admit to a few near-misses by accidentally bumping the lever. The nylon cams inside the top, attached to the lever, do wear over time, causing the locking mechanism to get looser. They're easy to replace. The Norma series is different, and uses a traditional sliding bar. But yeah, I could make a set of those clips in the shop myself quite easily.

You gotta watch it with the letter series models as the board locks can develop a "false positive" locking position over time... Everything would seem like it locked, but the strip that engaged the board would barely slide over the board... (As a studio assistant, I have take a few dives to catch a few lenses that started falling and saved the day...) I would paint or white tape over the locks at different studios an indicator that if you didn't see the white strip past the board edge, it was unsafe to hold the lens...

The bellows could also not be totally locked on, causing leaks... And the levels were almost totally useless...

Other than that, good cameras, but you have to watch for the above...

Steve K

[Greg]

You gotta watch it with the letter series models as the board locks can develop a "false positive" locking position over time... Everything would seem like it locked, but the strip that engaged the board would barely slide over the board... (As a studio assistant, I have take a few dives to catch a few lenses that started falling and saved the day...) I would paint or white tape over the locks at different studios an indicator that if you didn't see the white strip past the board edge, it was unsafe to hold the lens...

The bellows could also not be totally locked on, causing leaks... And the levels were almost totally useless...

Other than that, good cameras, but you have to watch for the above...

Steve K

Also have had that same experience of the front latch on my P "false positive" locking on a non OEM (Sinar) lens board. Never happened on my Sinar Norma in the 45+ years that I have been using it. Also painted, in my case fluorescent green paint, on my lens boards under where the locks came down. In my case if I could see the fluorescent green paint, I had a problem. Paint wore off in time but never fully. The levels on my former P seemed to be regularly in need of recalibrating. Finally just used the Sinar P's levels to roughly level the camera, and then use a small level to accurately level the camera. Not doing architectural photography any more, so the levels on my Sinar X suit me fine.

[Drew Wiley]

I used a pendulum clinometer instead of those tiny levels. Better yet, align to a screen grid. But film doesn't necessarily fit dead square in a holder anyway, so correction is inevitable during printing, for those subject like architecture where it might really matter (or be just plain deceptive, since the dude who built the kitchen you photographed used a bad level himself).

[Wishegan]

Here’s a picture of it (third picture has a drawing of it in use). Easy enough to 3D print.