I would like to try this so I am curious if anyone has done this and if so, what was their procedure for either stand or semi-stand. I don't see why it would not work so will try it either way.
I would like to try this so I am curious if anyone has done this and if so, what was their procedure for either stand or semi-stand. I don't see why it would not work so will try it either way.
I have done one today.
Single sheet of Fomapan 200
PyrocatHD 1:1:200
30 minutes in total
1 minute continued agitation
10 seconds agitation at 7.5 minutes / 15 minutes / 22.5 minutes
Cool. How did it turn out?
It works well for this application Steven.
I usually shoot pairs of sheets, often one gets developed in replenished XTOL, the other in some sort of pyro using semi-stand. My methods are similar to Ian, 1 minute initial agitation and then 10 sec every 1/3 or 1/4 of the total time depending on the overall time. When working with very dilute two part developers (e.g. Pyrocat or Hypercat) I often mix the appropriate volume of the A part into 1 or 1 1/2 litres of water and then split it into a 500ml working solution. I then add the B part, the alkali, to the working solution when it is ready to go into the tank.
Here are a couple of examples developed in Hypercat 1:10:300 on Acros and TMX 100 respectively.
All the best
Very nice. I am thinking of a 2-bath pyro to try in this manner. So I would do part A first, then part B. From what I understand, part A is not as important as part B. The film just needs time to fully absorb part A, the Part B, developer, is where the long development time would take place. Although I supposed I could do A and B for 30 minutes each.
Diluted Pyrocat and FP4 with Minimal agitation (3 cycles) works well for me with one or two sheets at a time. Steve Sherman's technique with personal modifications.
The magic you are looking for is in the work you are avoiding.
http://www.searing.photography
Stand or any minimal agitation scheme is an entirely different process than divided development. I’ve used what’s generally called extreme minimal agitation - 1.5 minutes agitation initially then agitation at 1/3 and 2/3 of the total development time - for about 15-years. I’ve mostly used Pyrocat HD. I’ve done this for a reason - to reduce overall contrast while maintaining micro contrast in the extreme subject brightness ranges where I shoot.
By all means, experiment with these methods, but experience has shown me you need a reason to vary from the manufacturer recommended development schemes.
The reason I chose to try it with FomaPan was to try and tame the build up of contrast which this film seems to do very quickly especially when your in reciprocity. As the brightness range of the scene was low in the Egg Shell still life, I was curious if using minimal agitation and extended development time would extend the range of tones.
I am experimenting as I shoot very difficult scenes. Like directly into the sun for a sunset shot with a canyon below me. Typically you pick either the sunset (sky) to be properly exposed and forego the canyon or you expose for the canyon and except that your sky will suck. I am trying to find a way to get it all and not have to overdo it with grad nd's etc, which don't always get you completely there. This is just one example.
Nice sea shells. That turned out well.
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