A bit of WD 40 on a scotchbrite pad will remove the majority of the rust then you will need to protect the surface from rusting again. Carnauba wax is a frequent go to for this and has the added benefit of lubricating the parts without attracting much dust.
Note that the motor noise might be normal, as the gear head motor usually has a loudish whine sound... The manual knob should be turning pretty fast while operating the motor, but if it is sluggish and humming, that's a motor issue, or binding issue...
Make sure it is not binding anywhere or it will eat up the gears...
The next thing to look at is the pads for the slides that the standards that slide on the monorail... Give them an up and down + sideways wiggle and see if they are too loose or tight... Don't just tighten them up too tight as that will cause damage to the bearing plates, as there is wear underneath that needs replacement pads if worn... Check and ask here first...
Steve,
After a lot of oil and wd40 things seem to he good now, it raises and lowers just fine and with no loud noises. Are you talking about those find that slide in the plastic channels on the column? If so I was going to look at those next to make sure they are working.
That too, but I mentioned the slides on the head monorail that the neg and other stages ride on... First, make sure the beveled monorail edges are smooth and clean for the stages to ride on...
Now Beseler assumes if everything is working correctly, the enlarger does not need alignment, so there is no adjustments available, but due to wear, those stage slides can distort or wear causing stage misalignment... The slide material is still available, so you should purchase a set or two... These should be snug, but not over tightened as this will distort the bearing holders....
If you align the enl, you have to align the column which is possible, but not too easy... Check back with us about it...
For alignment, I aligned the negative carrier with the lens board and baseboard. I used a laser torpedo level to make beams perpendicular to the surface going up or down to a mirror. If the beam returned to the same spot, it was aligned in that axis. Rotate level's azimuth 90 degrees and check the other way likewise.
The color head weighs more than the original head so it does put a bit more strain on the motor but more than likely its the belt slipping hindering the movement.
As for noise, you have to clean the rust out of everything in the drive train, then lubricate it with lithium grease. WD is too thin as a lubricant but is good for the cleaning process.
Also the drive belt... get some BELT DRESSING from an auto store. Apply a bit to the pullies as its runing so you can get an even positive traction. Dont spray it on... put a bit in a cup n dab it on with a q-tip, it gets very sticky n will gunk up. All you need is a very small amount to just lightly wet the surfaces. let it dry as it runs for a minute or so n you will see it improves the traction, no more slipping.
Thanks everyone, I am using litium white grease for some of the lubrication. The motor works fine now. I just need 5o take care of the surface rust on the unpainted areas. I will apply some of that belt dressing that Paul recommend. Then alignment. Thanks again!
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