How hard can it be to use an SP445?

[Steven Ruttenberg]

When I first got it, I had no problems. Now that I have used it a while, I get issues. White dots on the negatives, swirl marks on the film along 1 edge (always the edges with sky in them, even from film in same holder which would reverse sky positions from one another when developing. Happens whether or not there is pre-soak, etc. Not to mention other weird stuff with under development in corners and such (not lens issue as it happens with any of my lenses and regardless of film holders as well.) Perhaps I need to just use trays or buy a better daylight tank. I know some have no issues, but how hard can this be? It isn't rocket science.

Mix developer, stop bath, fixer, hypoclear to proper dilutions, stabilize at correct temp 68 degrees, then pour, develop, etc. I agitate properly or so I think I am, I do an initial agitation (not hard), the rotate every thirty seconds or as prescribed by developer, pour out, put in stop bath, same thing, fixer, etc.

I wonder if it is because I hold the tank at a slight angle as I pour the chemicals in if that would do it? I wouldn't think so, but never know. Weird that it is always around the edges of every piece of film I develop that has that problem Here is an example from latest. Tmax developer. This is one of the worst ones, but it looks like it was the edges got all jacked up on both long edges, so it definitely is something I am doing wrong with the SP445. Used fresh developer as well. Again, it isn't the holders as it will do this with new holders and old holders. I have gotten great negatives from the SP445, but lately getting crap. Any thoughts? Feel free to down the tif file and process the way you normally do if you are so inclined. It is a raw tif that I applied at gamma 2.2 to and saved as 10x8 at 300dpi. Notch is on upper right of film. Tmax100, f22, 90mm Schneider f/5.6 Super Angulon at 2 seconds. Not filters.

Help appreciated, not snide/rude or otherwise non-helpful comments not needed. I am trying to learn what is causing this and not do it in the future and hopefully this will help others.

[IMG]20181016_0205_flikr by Steven Ruttenberg, on Flickr[/IMG]

[esearing]

If you are using hypo clear or photoflo I find you have to really clean the system after each use in hot water. If not I tend to get issues around the side tabs.

Other than that I get no issues but i use dilute developer with an initial 2 minute agitation then minimal agitation. My pour time is about 12 seconds using a 500ml kitchen measuring cup with tank held at angle. If the 450ml fill tab is getting in your way - file it off.
Leave some air for proper agitation, don't fill to top measure 450 or 475ml

I also only do 1 sheet (maybe 2) at a time.

Presoak 5mins for FP4+
developer
water stop
fixer
2-3 minute wash in tank: fill , shake, and dump.
remove to separate washer - paterson square tank so I can start on next single sheet.

[Steven Ruttenberg]

I use hypoclear, maybe I should wash it better. Maybe I need to agitate longer, I usually agitate for about 15-30 seconds then agitate every 30 seconds after. I am using 1:4 for Tmax and HC110B solution. The 2-bath pyro is 1:15 or 1:20 for each bath. I put in exactly 450ml. I will do some experimenting to see how it fills at angle vs straight up and down.

[Two23]

I've been thinking of buying one of these but haven't yet. It does sound plausible that there could be some residue left in the side rails that hold the film. That would explain why the problem wasn't happening before for one thing.


Kent in SD

[esearing]

Are you inverting the tank or just rocking side to side? With HC110 B (1:31) your development times are generally short so fill and dump time comes into play at the bottom of your film in the tank. I would also suggest more initial agitation then maybe less frequent interim agitations. Else more dilute and let it develop longer.

[Steven Ruttenberg]

I completely rotate the tank with long side facing me, then rotate 90 degrees and completely rotate the tank with short edge facing me for next agitation cycle. For initial agitation I was sort of sloshing it around to make sure I competely wet the film. I can dilute the Tmax to 1:7 or 1:9 I believe and 1:31 for HC-110.

If I mixed the HC to 1:62 could I just double the development time? This would certainly hit the film considerably less hard in the begining and upon dumping.

I have times for a 1:9 for the Tmax developer. It may be that the standard working solutions are too strong for use ih the SP tank.

[Steven Ruttenberg]

This interesting article on HC-110. Here is the link.

http://www.covingtoninnovations.com/hc110/

[Ulophot]

Steve, I have had no problems at all with the 445, but I use inversions, not rotation. That is, the tank does a complete "somersault" in approximately 2.5 seconds. I hope you're able to resolve your problems. I find the 445 a perfect tool for 1-4 sheets.

[Steven Ruttenberg]

Steve, I have had no problems at all with the 445, but I use inversions, not rotation. That is, the tank does a complete "somersault" in approximately 2.5 seconds. I hope you're able to resolve your problems. I find the 445 a perfect tool for 1-4 sheets.

That is what I do. A complete 360 of the tank, somersault as you put it. I think, I am using dilutions that are too strong (typical dilutions) It may be my particular style, does not lend itself to the procedure. I am also going to start washing the components in soap and water with an alcohol rinse after each use to make sure all remnants of developer, etc are removed. I will get this. I agree this little tank is perfect, but I am also going to look into the jobo professional as well for hand development. I am wanting to try the trays, but don't have a room to do in. I am considering taking over my closet a times. Just need a negative washer to hang negatives while rinsing.

[esearing]

If I mixed the HC to 1:62 could I just double the development time? .

HC110 is considered to be linear so in theory yes. in practice I preferred double minus 1 minute with Delta 100 and HP5 because they seem to extend the contrast more.
There is also 1:47 dilution so 1.5x your normal time. 1:44 would be close enough if you want 450ml of solution.