How hard can it be to use an SP445?

[Steven Ruttenberg]

I'm a bit confused about short and long edges and axes, but to clarify my previous post, holding the tank in front of me so that the two caps are at left adn right, not in a line like a lens axis from behind the camera, I perform the somersault inversions.

The residues you note, Steve, sound troubling. Any idea what they came from?

long axis is the line running thru caps left to right as you describe, short axis is a line running between caps left to right when you have caps in line facing you. So That is what I will start doing.

I am not sure what the residue was/is from. It is a film on top of the water, kinda oily looking. It was same whether using distilled water or tap water. I am guessing the plastic absorbs some of the chemicals and that adding water release some. Most likely negligible, but then again, nothing in film developing is negligible. I did rinse with 91% rubbing alcohol and that seemed to reduce the film to almost nothing. It might be that after rinsing out, components should get a final rinse in rubbing alcohol.

[IanBarber]

This is how I agitate the tank

[otto.f]

Did you develop non-Kodak films too? Sorry to say but I had all kinds of spots on recent Tri-X in HC110 in the SP445, which I did not have with old Tri-X from 2003 and other brands like Delta and PANCRO400. I don’t know about Tmax developer but I do know that HC110 should be stirred unlikely well (to make stock solution 1+3 as well as working solution 1+7).

[Steven Ruttenberg]

I developed Tmax100 got spots. Got them too on color neg portra and extar and slide film. I max developer as wellas the HC-110. I mixed at 1:31 for working solution and 1:4 with Tmax developer.

[Jim Noel]

Photo-flo forms a catalyst which clings to the reels. The catalyst increases development along the edges of the film.
SOLUTION: Throw away the Photo-Flo and obtain some LFN. Next scrub the reels in ot soapy water prior to using again.

[Steven Ruttenberg]

What is LFN?

I don't use photo-flo when developing, but I do dip my holders with film in the photo-flo prior to removing the negatives. That could be the residue I am seeing on the top of the water when I filled the sp445 up without lid. I did finally wash tank with hot soapy water.

Interesting as photo-flo used for 2 bath pyrocat in solution A.

Development of roll film on reels with intermittent agitation

Prepare working solution A by mixing 15 parts water with 1 part of Pyrocat Stock Solution A. Add a few drops of Photo-Flo to working solution A. Prepare working solution B by mixing 15 parts of water with 1 part of Stock Solution B. Temperature of both solutions should be about 75ºF, but the exact temperature is not critical. Total time of development should be about five minutes in both Solution A and Solution B. Use enough working solution A and B to cover the film on the reels.

1. Pre-soak the film for three minutes in water at 75º F. Drain thoroughly.
2. Put the film on reels and place into the tank.
3. Pour Solution A into the tank. Agitate continuously for about one minute, then agitate for ten seconds once every minute thereafter.
4. Pour out Solution A and drain for fifteen seconds.
5. Pour in solution B. Agitate roll film continuously for one minute, then for five seconds every thirty seconds thereafter for the duration of the total time of three minutes.
6. Follow normal procedures for stop bath, fix, and wash.

[io6060]

What is LFN? ...

Edwal LFN.

[Steven Ruttenberg]

Thanks. I have the anti-static cleaner, it is okay.