A test shot for any fellow travelers.
Rodinal 1/500, 30 minutes, one inversion at 15 minutes. ISO 6, Metered at 8 seconds; exposed for 30 seconds.
Fire away.
A test shot for any fellow travelers.
Rodinal 1/500, 30 minutes, one inversion at 15 minutes. ISO 6, Metered at 8 seconds; exposed for 30 seconds.
Fire away.
Interested in why only one "inversion" (I take that to mean one period of agitation). In the past to test lenses out, I have shot circa 1980s Kodak ortho 2556 (Kodalith) and processed in Rodinal 1:600, but only got good negatives with continuous agitation (Jobo Drum) and a good amount of chemistry.
thanks
Not being familiar with 2556, I am not sure the problems associated with using that film. My initial instinct was to allow it to sit for the entire 30 minutes. However, at the 15 minute mark I went with one inversion, i.e. turned the tank over once. This is, by far, the greatest range of tonality I have gleaned from this very economical film. I will not pretend to be anything other than a duffer. Meter reading was incident, and taken near the woman's face. Previously I have been using Rodinal 1/160 for eight minutes, and inverting every two minutes. Results were recognizable as a photograph, but still lacking in tonality......At least in my view. I may be mistaken but am under impression Arista Ortho Litho is essentially X-ray film. Not sure if same is true of 2256.
Best
Kodalith 2556 is a blue-sensitive film made for the graphic-arts industry, for use in the printing process. Designed for ultra-high contrast, no gray tones whatsoever. Used for line copy and making halftones for offset reproduction. So the tonal range that you have achieved is quite impressive.
BTW, Kodalith was discontinued in the 1990s and replaced by a variety of "Rapid-Access" films. No connection with X-ray films. I suppose that Arista Ortho Litho film would be generally similar.
Trouble that I ran into was that the exposure had to dead on. Using Rodinal at a dilution of 1:600, had to use a lot of developer for each batch of film processed in the JOBO drums, and rate of continuous rotation/agitation was also very finicky for some reason that I could never figure out. Final gave up on using this combo for personal photography and relegated it to testing lenses. The Kodalith 2556 film was purchased from a State surplus store, so price per sheet of 11x14 was way less than X-Ray film. For personal Photography use Ilford 11x14 which B&H regularly stocks.Originally Posted by Mark Sampson
it's true, turning high-contrast films into normal-contrast negatives is a difficult game. Slow speed, lack of exposure latitude, still a short tonal scale, unevenness in development, streaking, there are lots of issues that will make you a superb technician, totally frustrated, or both at once.
tennjed's example proves that it can be done, though, which is a pleasant surprise. Well done!
I have used Arista Ortho Litho for about 25 years. I also use both single and double sided X-ray film. There is little if any similarity other than the fact that both are orthochromatic.
Second negative. Turned out very thin; took some manipulation in Lightroom. Same film, scene, exposure processed with 510 Pyro, 1/500, 5 minutes. 1 inversion at 2.5 minutes. Sorry for dust spots.
Also has a dark band about 1/3 up from bottom not present in first image.Second negative. Turned out very thin; took some manipulation in Lightroom. Same film, scene, exposure processed with 510 Pyro, 1/500, 5 minutes. 1 inversion at 2.5 minutes. Sorry for dust spots.
In using the 510 Pyro I have discovered it is somewhat difficult to stir developer completely into solution. There have been instances where mixing/stiring for 5, or even 10 minutes, and then allowing it to sit for an additional time, has resulted in visible concentrations- sort of like darker brown clouds- in the mixing beaker. I wonder if that characteristic had anything to do with the dark band? Dark band notwithstanding, I think I like the tonality of the 510 better than the rodinal.
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