Already looking beautiful Jim and excited to follow another one of your camera builds.
Pali
Already looking beautiful Jim and excited to follow another one of your camera builds.
Pali
Regarding springs: I went to Home Depot and bought a brass kick plate -- the metal piece that goes at the bottoms of doors, you see them around heavily traveled areas. The metal, if I recall, is about 1/16" thick, give or take.
Cut the spring out to shape, curl the end(s) for screws, etc., then lay it on an anvil, thick flat metal surface, bit ol' vise, whatever, and hammer all over the flat section with a regular hammer. Try not to use the hammer head's edge; go for getting the flat part to make the impact as much as possible. This makes for less pounding to get the result, with fewer (or no) dents.
Hammering it changes it structure in some way that makes it springy.
For a larger camera, it's probably wise to make smaller "leaves", treat them the same way, and layer them towards the middle of the longer spring, for long-term strength and springiness. You've probably all seen that kind of configuration on various cameras you've encountered.
Hope this helps.
I've used those kick plates over the years for various parts for the cameras I've built. You can get a lot out of one kick plate. They come in brass and stainless steel. I have found that the stainless feeler gauge material works great and yes on larger cameras I use more leaves as it gives a stronger spring and keeps the holder tight to the back.
BTW I did a weigh in and the camera will be 22 lbs. I'm very happy about that!
Thanks for the suggestions about springs. Unfortunately McMaster-Carr doesn't ship outside the US - and DIY stores aren't really a thing where I live (South Korea). There is one big store about an hours drive away but I couldn't even buy wood screws there. Hammering brass to make it springy is interesting - I can buy brass strips of the correct thickness from a craft shop, but it doesn't seem springy enough.
I will follow progress with this big camera build with interest, anyway!
Don't give up, change your design to fit local materials.
A ULF camera does not need to be built with a spring back. Or bellows. Or fancy lens and shutter. Or even use normal film holders.
Look at this 'box' https://ondupinhole.com/products/8x1...pinhole-camera
All you need is a light tight box, a pinhole and a place to load one film or paper at a time.
One shot.
Tin Can
Bungee chord is an alternative to metal springs with a design change.
Also, you can have a fold-down focusing screen that is moved out of the way when the film holder is put in place.
Lachlan.
You miss 100% of the shots you never take. -- Wayne Gretzky
The great thing about these building threads is all the great ideas everyone has.
A quick update. The front standard is done. I have five lenses available to use. Since his is a field camera I went with six inch ( or there about) lens boards.
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