I have one question (which in my case relates to which 4x5" camera I can use) - does focus from the rear (that is, moving the light source) compared to moving the front (where the lens is) make a difference?
I have one question (which in my case relates to which 4x5" camera I can use) - does focus from the rear (that is, moving the light source) compared to moving the front (where the lens is) make a difference?
Hello, the light source is LED'sOriginally Posted by Luis-F-S
It would make a difference as in one scenario the lens and paper plane is fixed (moving the rear standard) and in the other the lens and paper plane would move (moving the front standard) you could use either way to achieve a sharp image though.
Max, congrats on the campaign, looks like it will be another success.
I have 3 questions:
1, How well are your LED light source and controller combating bleeding? (the light stays on at very low intensity even after being switched off)
2, Will the film holders be 3D printed or injection moulded? (3d print a big part at low tolerance is quite time consuming)
3, Since the holders will be made out of plastic, what's our option to manage dust and static?
Hope you can clarify those points, others may find them helpful too.
Put a large piece of mirror on your paper plane, then focus and align the camera so that the reflection of the lens is completely square, then you can be reasonably sure that your film plane is parallel to your paper plane. It's quite simple if you have a geared tripod head such as Acra Swiss Cube or P0 Hybrid. I built a graflarger based on this post in APUG https://www.photrio.com/forum/thread...larger.146616/ and could get my 'enlarger' squared in about a minute, but I have the Cube. YMMV.
Thanks! In answer to your questions,
1. This isn't a problem at all with the LEDs and timer we have, whilst electronics isn't my strongest topic (more of a wood guy) Carl, our electronics engineer ensures me this isn't a problem because of the type of LED we are using and the way they are switched with a relay.
2. We are exploring Injection moulding or using a metal clam shell arrangement that is ver common amongst enlargers. The final product will not be 3D printed as the tolerances just aren't there with the 3D printers we have.
3. Plastic or Metal I would imagine people will manage dust in the usual way with a quick blast of Air from a can before use.
Let me know if you have any other questions,
By far not all "plastics" retain static charge, added fillers or specific reinforcing agents allow to make plastic parts conductive enough: static dissipative, conductive or even ESD shielding capable (including bare carbon in the mix).
Hi Max, congratulations for the project which looks will be a great success! Just a quick question tho - if someone gets a camera alongside the enlarger kit, would that camera be exactly the same as other Intrepid 4x5 that are being sold, or will there be any sort of enhancement to hold the standards rigid? I have a Intrepid 8x10 and in the upright position, the lens standard tends to lean forward when the lens is of appreciable weight. I just wonder if there is anything that can prevent / accommodate for the unintended tilting of the lens standard due to weight of lens (assuming we use normal 150mm lenses for the task)?
A related question would be how the focusing rail would work in the enlarger version of the camera, and how it handles fine adjustments. Again would there any be refinement to the enlarger-camera in this department?
Thanks.
Did anyone get one of these? Could you let me know what voltage the timer input is? Reason I ask is my work space only has a 12v battery and I'm looking for a solution which doesn't involve an inverter.
As you're only at the other end of the country why not pick up the phone and give them a call.
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