Page 2 of 3 FirstFirst 123 LastLast
Results 11 to 20 of 27

Thread: HC110 doesnt like me.

  1. #11

    Join Date
    Oct 2016
    Location
    Chicago
    Posts
    39

    Re: HC110 doesnt like me.

    I’m convinced processing anomalies increase exponentially with increased film size, 4x5 > 5x7 > 8x10.

  2. #12

    Join Date
    Aug 2000
    Location
    California
    Posts
    2,613

    Re: HC110 doesnt like me.

    The only reason increased film size causes more anomalies is operator error in agitation. My agitation methods vary slightly with different sizes. This is not true when I take the trouble to use JObo with expert drum. Some of my film is too large for this method so I use a tray one sheet at a time.

  3. #13
    Gary Beasley's Avatar
    Join Date
    Apr 2007
    Location
    Marietta Ga. East Cobb.
    Posts
    428

    Re: HC110 doesnt like me.

    Are these prints or film scans? The mottle patterns are way too similar to each other.

  4. #14

    Join Date
    Oct 2016
    Location
    Chicago
    Posts
    39

    Re: HC110 doesnt like me.

    Quote Originally Posted by Gary Beasley View Post
    Are these prints or film scans? The mottle patterns are way too similar to each other.
    Good suggestion so I did a test. I am using a 12000XL scanner only because the highlights are better. On the V850 the highlights seem to blow a little too quickly. Scanning in to .tif and adjusting in Camera Raw.Click image for larger version. 

Name:	scanners.jpg 
Views:	48 
Size:	59.1 KB 
ID:	181415

  5. #15

    Join Date
    Oct 2016
    Location
    Chicago
    Posts
    39

    Re: HC110 doesnt like me.

    Quote Originally Posted by Jim Noel View Post
    The only reason increased film size causes more anomalies is operator error in agitation. My agitation methods vary slightly with different sizes. This is not true when I take the trouble to use JObo with expert drum. Some of my film is too large for this method so I use a tray one sheet at a time.
    5x7 does seem to have more problems than 4x5 but haven't tested for it yet. I am trying to process a minimum of 8 at a time, one per process would never work, and that has a lot to do with it. Might just end up with a nitrogen burst tank.

  6. #16

    Join Date
    Sep 1998
    Location
    Oregon and Austria
    Posts
    2,081

    Re: HC110 doesnt like me.

    I see no reason why trays or tanks shouldn't deliver good results as long as you get your agitation scheme right. Thousands of photographers past and present use/used both methods with excellent results. I would say, don't give up on trays and batch processing, rather work out the agitation method you need to get good results.

    I used HC-110 for years, usually at 1+31 or 1+63 from concentrate, and had very even and consistent negatives (Tri-X, TMX, TMY Bergger 200) after I got my agitation method worked out. I usually develop six sheets of 4x5 at a time in 5x7 trays with shuffle agitation. Initially I had too-dense edges. This was caused by my pushing the negatives down into the solution too vigorously which swirled the developer around the edges more than in the middle. I eased up, just helping the negatives slowly sink onto the top of the stack and then swishing my fingertips over the middle of the negative a time or two before pulling the next sheet off the bottom of the stack.

    With HC110 I agitated once through the stack every 60 seconds. Now I use staining developers mostly (PMK and Pyrocat). These are much more finicky than HC-110 as regards evenness and tendency to mottle. Now I go through the stack every 30 seconds for the first half of the developing time. I get really smooth skies.

    So, FWIW, here's my agitation scheme and some tips that might help:

    I pre-soak and find that 3 minutes is about the minimum; 5 minutes is better. I don't really like to develop more than 6 sheets in a batch (that makes one shuffle every 5 seconds when going through the stack in 30 seconds). I have done up to 8 sheets at a time, but it gets a bit hectic.

    I shuffle the stack in the water tray. When I'm ready to develop I lift the sheets out of the water tray, drain them a bit and then fan them out in my left hand like a hand of cards. I start the clock and immerse the sheets in the developer, emulsion-side-up, one-at-a-time in 5-second intervals, swishing my fingertips over the surface of each sheet a bit in the process. All sheets are in at second 25 and I then lift the stack gently, pull a sheet from the bottom, turn it 180 and gently lay it on the top of the developer, submerging it slowly with gentle pressure from my fingertips and see-sawing the sheet a bit on the way down. Then it's on to the next sheet. I always keep track of sheet one by having it oriented 180 from the other sheets so I can make sure it hits the top of the stack on the full and half minute marks. This goes on for half my developing time, usually 5-8 minutes. At the halfway point I reduce agitation to once through the stack every 60 seconds to promote edge effects a bit (one of my main reasons for using staining developers).

    When development time is up, I leave sheet one on the bottom of the stack, lift the entire stack out, fan it and immerse the sheets one-at-a-time in the stop bath in the same order as they went into the developer, again in 5-second intervals to ensure every sheet gets exactly the same development time. After that, I'm not so fastidious, since unevenness is no longer an issue.

    Some things that may help promote evenness: A nice long water pre-soak (3-5 minutes), longer developing times (I like 7 minutes or longer; my N for Tri-X is 9 minutes, for TMY 11 minutes), sufficient but not too vigorous agitation, rotating the sheets 90 or 180 each shuffle, getting through the stack rather quickly, e.g., once every 30 seconds as opposed to longer, not processing at higher temperatures (this increases developer activity and sometimes your agitation can't keep pace), and basically being smooth, gentle and somewhat random with your agitation so as not to set up swirls, standing waves, etc. With HC-110, I'd really make sure that the developer was well-mixed before developing as well. Stirring with a stirring paddle or the like won't aerate the developer much. I used to pour the developer back and forth with two graduates a time or two also.

    Hope this helps a bit,

    Doremus
    Last edited by Doremus Scudder; 11-Aug-2018 at 09:51.

  7. #17

    Join Date
    Oct 2016
    Location
    Chicago
    Posts
    39

    Re: HC110 doesnt like me.

    That’s a zen description of tray processing. I tend to rapidly peel the film off the bottom of the stack being held in my left hand, and push them down in to the water/developer/stop/fix as quickly as I can with the palm of my hand. About 2 every five seconds. Those almost identical circular marks on both tray and tank film leads me to believe it is something besides processing. Next test will be with a different developer.

  8. #18
    Randy's Avatar
    Join Date
    Dec 2010
    Location
    Virginia, USA
    Posts
    1,271

    Re: HC110 doesnt like me.

    When I used HC-110, (it was my only developer for probably 10-15 years until I ran out and switched to Rodinal) I never had a problem - 4X5 films in 8X10 trays, usually 6-8 sheets but have done as many as 18-20 sheets. I never pre-soaked longer than 2 minutes. In the developer, slowly shuffled thru the stack, let sit for 30 seconds, turned the tray and shuffle again. I never got what I see in your scans.
    https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/52893762/bigger4b.jpg

  9. #19

    Join Date
    Dec 2014
    Location
    Suwanee, GA
    Posts
    358

    Re: HC110 doesnt like me.

    My problems with HC110 was too much contrast. I could never seem to tame it with more dilution nor reduced agitation in tank. For flat scenes it was ok, but for waterfalls with black wet rocks and white water in the sun, I could never tame the whites. Diluted Pryrocat HD has been better for me processing one or two sheets at a time.
    The mountain waters of North Georgia call out to me, I visit and leave only tripod holes behind. The Appalachian Trail is my treadmill and gym.
    http://www.esearing.com

  10. #20

    Join Date
    Oct 2016
    Location
    Chicago
    Posts
    39

    Re: HC110 doesnt like me.

    Click image for larger version. 

Name:	3AB20C43-C1AC-49DA-887E-0DDB9B2926A2.jpg 
Views:	21 
Size:	22.7 KB 
ID:	181420

    In order to get even development I attempted to process the film while in film sheaths in a tray but not enough liquid flowed to the back of the film. If they can be used in a tank with the back of the sheath opened up while keeping the thin frame intact it might be a possible.

Similar Threads

  1. boyer beryl 180 f6.8 should fit #1 but doesnt??
    By chris77 in forum Lenses & Lens Accessories
    Replies: 2
    Last Post: 6-Mar-2018, 06:23
  2. Doesnt blow the highlights
    By swmcl in forum Darkroom: Film, Processing & Printing
    Replies: 15
    Last Post: 12-May-2016, 16:14
  3. Polaroid 180 Tominon lens doesnt close aperture
    By bracan in forum Lenses & Lens Accessories
    Replies: 6
    Last Post: 31-Aug-2012, 03:47
  4. hc110
    By madmax12 in forum Darkroom: Film, Processing & Printing
    Replies: 7
    Last Post: 26-Jan-2010, 18:26

Bookmarks

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •