Any of the more modern holders will fit. I buy all holders used, either from here or ebay.
Kent in SD
Any of the more modern holders will fit. I buy all holders used, either from here or ebay.
Kent in SD
In contento ed allegria
Notte e di vogliam passar!
Either 300mm (approx 12") or 360mm (approx. 14") I would be consider a normal lens on the format, although most of mine are 360mm / 14".Originally Posted by v.kapoor
To provide some perspective, my most frequently used lens on 4x5 is 210mm, so I use typically a slightly longer than normal viewpoint...
Hope that helps,
Len
I would say, go for it. Buy an Intrepid 8x10, it is cheap, light and you can carry it to places. I am going to do it, as I will only care for B&W and 8x10s. In fact, there is a group asking The Intrepid Co. people to do the enlarger for 8x10. You will be able to enlarge with your camera and projecting on the wall of a room in your house if you want to go large. Do not stop, go for your feelings. One day we all are going to die and you will not be able to do what you like, do it now. I am 66 and feel like 21 with this hobby. Oh, I forgot: Get some money, those color negs are expensive. Go B&W.
PS: I already have an 8x10 pinhole camera that I built. I have done some shots, developed it myself and scanned it with my Epson V800.Here is a pic of my 4x5 pinhole camera taken with my 8x10:
My 4x5 Pinhole Camera by Palenquero Photography, on Flickr
"I have never in my life made music for money or fame. God walks out of the room when you are thinking about money." -- Quincy Jones
-> think twice before buying the gear, lenses in special, you can spend way more in 4x5" if you want, you need clear ideas about the glass you want.
> tripod, one for 810 is a serious tripod, place a toy laser pointer in the front to evaluate vibrations of the spot 20m far
> film, usually you shot less sheets but shots are usually well worth... from cost, preparation, etc you may be shooting 1/4 of the sheets you would shot with 4x5, so film has the same cost
My only problem with this thread is its premise...that a move from 4x5 to 8x10 would necessarily be considered an "upgrade." Of course this move could rightly be (or become) an upgrade for some folks...but not for others. And indeed, for some, the reverse (8x10 to 4x5) might be an "upgrade" depending upon a whole host of factors, variables, and results. Might I suggest that the term "transitioning" could be more relevant?
Pepe the OP reported back to say he just bought a Canham Wood Standard (W/ Toyo lens boards) he's no longer looking for "which 8x10 camera to buy".I would say, go for it. Buy an Intrepid 8x10, it is cheap, light and you can carry it to places. I am going to do it, as I will only care for B&W and 8x10s. In fact, there is a group asking The Intrepid Co. people to do the enlarger for 8x10. You will be able to enlarge with your camera and projecting on the wall of a room in your house if you want to go large. Do not stop, go for your feelings. One day we all are going to die and you will not be able to do what you like, do it now. I am 66 and feel like 21 with this hobby. Oh, I forgot: Get some money, those color negs are expensive. Go B&W.
PS: I already have an 8x10 pinhole camera that I built. I have done some shots, developed it myself and scanned it with my Epson V800.Here is a pic of my 4x5 pinhole camera taken with my 8x10:
BTW- Nice pinhole camera you made.
I feel you are right, more a transitioning than an upgrade, while 810 would be a moderate upgrade in ultimate image quality for moster prints, for the rest it's a transitioning, and of course 8x10 has many drawbacks compared to 4x5. IMHO 45 and 810 may have slightly different aesthetic footprints, and at least it may be a transition in the way we approach to the subject.
For me, 4X5 IS good enough for most artistic purposes.
But it ultimately leads to enlarging or scanning.
8X10 and up is very good for contact prints.
And requires less gear...and room.
Process film and prints in the same trays.
Smaller total footprint.
Tin Can
Since the OP has already made his choice, I'll only pipe in with my retrospective thought: I found that my Deardorff 8x10 was great for grand, open landscapes and vistas. But I seem to be drawn personally to tighter spaces, in the woods or in historic sites, where I rarely achieved my goals with the larger camera. Over 30 years I had problems with the sheer size and weight of it, the cost of lenses and film, short depth of field, and the general clunkiness of operation. The Toyo 4x5 and Hasselblad were my workhorses, returning satisfying images on nearly every outing. My 8x10 is now living in Chicago with a new owner, who I hope is having a great time with it. So my advice to the OP is to enjoy your Canham, but be very selective in where you try to use it.
When I was a student at RIT in the 1970s, got a super deal on an 8x10 Burke & James wooden view and a 12 inch Wollensak Velostigmat lens in a Betax shutter. Couple of film holders and a spot meter forum locally in Rochester at great prices. My mentor was Nile Root. Under him pursued an independent study course in learning the ZONE System and using the 8x10. His advice to me:
1. First learn the ZONE System as per in the book PHOTOGRAPHY: CONTROL & CREATIVITY by T L Bollman & G E DeWolfe. Pages 1-19 "Exposure and Development for Contrast Control in Black and White Photograph" Fortunately George DeWolfe was on staff at RIT at the time so was able to spend some one on one time with him.
2. Use only one film, with one developer, and one brand of VC paper. Paper size was easy since I was contacting all my prints.
3. Stick with one lens (that 12" Wollensak in my case) and shoot exclusively with it for one year. Advice hard to follow since we could sign out, for free, many other lenses from the "cage".
I pass this on since it was to be the basis of an almost 50 year quest as a photographer... was a very firm foundation to build upon for all these years.
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