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Thread: Strobes vs Continuous Lighting with MF and LF?

  1. #31
    chassis's Avatar
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    Re: Strobes vs Continuous Lighting with MF and LF?

    Two things for the OP to think about, relative to light, are quantity and quality.

    Quantity is power, whether in watt-seconds from a strobe, lumens or watts.

    Quality is subjective. An easy example is to compare the effect produced by a speedlight, compared with a large soft box. No comparison, the devices produce a completely different quality of light.

    To the OP, what style do you want to aspire to? Whose portraiture do you admire? This helps to guide your equipment decisions.

    For MF and LF, studio strobes with or without radio triggers will work. A large range of light quantity and quality is possible with this setup.

  2. #32

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    Re: Strobes vs Continuous Lighting with MF and LF?

    Quote Originally Posted by chassis View Post
    Two things for the OP to think about, relative to light, are quantity and quality.

    Quantity is power, whether in watt-seconds from a strobe, lumens or watts.

    Quality is subjective. An easy example is to compare the effect produced by a speedlight, compared with a large soft box. No comparison, the devices produce a completely different quality of light.

    To the OP, what style do you want to aspire to? Whose portraiture do you admire? This helps to guide your equipment decisions.

    For MF and LF, studio strobes with or without radio triggers will work. A large range of light quantity and quality is possible with this setup.
    Quantity from strobe is never watt seconds or joules. Those are storage numbers, not output numbers. BCPS, ECBS or f stop are output measurement.

  3. #33
    Tin Can's Avatar
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    Re: Strobes vs Continuous Lighting with MF and LF?

    I have been adding to my lighting for 20 years. I first bought 2 Lowel Tota. I still use them.

    Then 4 Nikon SB800. Still wonderful.

    This decade I bought 4 Paul C Buff Einsteins

    Now I want to get Paul C Buff latest as they are both strobe and LED. Digibees


    Of course you need stands and modifiers but they all work with what I have so that expense is done.

    I have a Honda EU1000 generator I bought 27 years ago, it still works for outdoor location.

    I desire the Paul C Buff battery set as it will work with all PCB.

    I have borrowed and quickly returned sets of 1K and 2K Mole lights. Way too hot for me.

    As I expect most of my gear to survive me, I don't see any of it as too expensive.

    20 years ago I 'built' 7000K 95 CRI 48" fluorescent tube lighting on studio stands. I call it my Blue era...
    Tin Can

  4. #34

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    Re: Strobes vs Continuous Lighting with MF and LF?

    Learn studio lighting from the ground up and you will never have a lighting problem afterwards.
    I was taught to begin with a 5 watt bare bulb. Over the years I have acquired and learned to use both hot lights and strobes.I often return to a 5-10 watt bare bulb for still lifes.
    Strobes MUST have adjustable modeling lights which vary with the intensity of the strobe.

  5. #35
    Pieter's Avatar
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    Re: Strobes vs Continuous Lighting with MF and LF?

    I don't know if this has been already brought up, but continuous light is much easier to judge than strobe light. Although strobes have modeling lamps, until you shoot a polaroid or digital shot, you really don't know what you're getting unless you have been lighting for a while and know by experience and light ratios what to expect. On the downside continuous lights generate a lot more heat and can become uncomfortable for a model in a small studio as well as create issues with or need special reflectors, gels, and soft boxes. And strobes are generally more powerful than hot lights.

  6. #36

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    Re: Strobes vs Continuous Lighting with MF and LF?

    Quote Originally Posted by Jim Noel View Post
    Learn studio lighting from the ground up and you will never have a lighting problem afterwards.
    I was taught to begin with a 5 watt bare bulb. Over the years I have acquired and learned to use both hot lights and strobes.I often return to a 5-10 watt bare bulb for still lifes.
    Strobes MUST have adjustable modeling lights which vary with the intensity of the strobe.
    Any suggestions for resources (books, online, etc) for learning studio lighting from the ground up?

  7. #37

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    Re: Strobes vs Continuous Lighting with MF and LF?

    Quote Originally Posted by 6x6TLL View Post
    Any suggestions for resources (books, online, etc) for learning studio lighting from the ground up?
    Good strobes have quartz proportional modeling lights, preferably under a frosted globe that also covers the flash tube and is centered in the flash tube. Then the modeling light will actually show you the lighting ratios and the character of the light from the flash.

  8. #38
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    Re: Strobes vs Continuous Lighting with MF and LF?

    Oops, I totally forgot about the 3 large LED video panels I bought 5 years ago.

    I keep them on wall mounts, moveable to C-Stand at a moment.

    Wall mount Booms are very nice, as you can stow a light by pushing it straight up along the wall.
    Tin Can

  9. #39
    chassis's Avatar
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    Re: Strobes vs Continuous Lighting with MF and LF?

    To learn studio lighting, I have learned a lot from these sites: Sekonic, Profoto, Strobist and other photographers’ websites.

  10. #40

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    Re: Strobes vs Continuous Lighting with MF and LF?

    I only have a very small space to light up for stills and a few portraits. I had a mole richardson tweeny 600w as a mainlight, but it gets so hot. I bought a godox sl60w led continuous white light, bowens mount, works well in my small space. Added a godox parabolic softlight for portraiture, the light is very soft but it works for me. There are examples on you tube

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