11x14 Deardorff Studio Camera

[diversey]

https://www.photrio.com/forum/thread...nd-s11.102903/

[leondf]

I took some shots with my 890mm Apo-Nikkor at 1:1 magnification. It was fun to shoot with a 6' bellows, but the images are not of exceptional quality. Probably due to my skill level but I did notice this in some Apo-Nikkor literature:

And also this table:

A 480mm would provide adequate coverage up to 1:10 film to subject size ratio. I think I will go back to 610mm, as "Tin Can" has suggested, or perhaps my 480mm Apo-Ronar for 11x14 portraiture. Does anyone see an advantage to using one of these two over the other? I would expect the Apo-Nikkor to be sharper close to 1:1 magnification, but the Apo-Ronar should give more depth of field.

[Tin Can]

I shoot primarily 610 Nikon, second 480 Ronar, lastly the two 900mm lenses for fun.

But what size film are you shooting? I shoot 11X14 with this camera.

Vibrations can be be causing blur, check floor and stand vibration. I put my sandbags on the base as my current floor is shaky. Adjust the camera stand base plate so it is solid. There is a wobble point in mine.

I use an internal Packard most of the time my fancy shutters are junk. I always use strobes. As we are in studio.

I have used up to 10 pops with strong strobes, in Bulb Mode.

I took some shots with my 890mm Apo-Nikkor at 1:1 magnification. It was fun to shoot with a 6' bellows, but the images are not of exceptional quality. Probably due to my skill level but I did notice this in some Apo-Nikkor literature:

And also this table:

A 480mm would provide adequate coverage up to 1:10 film to subject size ratio. I think I will go back to 610mm, as "Tin Can" has suggested, or perhaps my 480mm Apo-Ronar for 11x14 portraiture. Does anyone see an advantage to using one of these two over the other? I would expect the Apo-Nikkor to be sharper close to 1:1 magnification, but the Apo-Ronar should give more depth of field.

[leondf]

I shoot primarily 610 Nikon, second 480 Ronar, lastly the two 900mm lenses for fun.

But what size film are you shooting? I shoot 11X14 with this camera.

Vibrations can be be causing blur, check floor and stand vibration. I put my sandbags on the base as my current floor is shaky. Adjust the camera stand base plate so it is solid. There is a wobble point in mine.

I use an internal Packard most of the time my fancy shutters are junk. I always use strobes. As we are in studio.

I have used up to 10 pops with strong strobes, in Bulb Mode.

I'm shooting 11x14 xray film. Thanks for the suggestions. So, with 10 pops, I assume that is not for portraits. It would be hard not to blink through that. I hadn't thought of multiple pops, but it makes sense. 2 pops, twice the light, one more f-stop, more depth of field.

[Tin Can]

I have done macro and still life with multiple pops.

Never for portrait, but here is one shot on HP5 11X14. June Portraits 2019

[leondf]

I have done macro and still life with multiple pops.

Never for portrait, but here is one shot on HP5 11X14. June Portraits 2019

Nice! I really like that. Do you remember which lens and f-stop? Have you ever taken two head shots of the same person, one with the 480 and one with the 610 and compared the two?

[Tin Can]

Nice! I really like that. Do you remember which lens and f-stop? Have you ever taken two head shots of the same person, one with the 480 and one with the 610 and compared the two?

It was 2 years ago before I moved everything.

I am sure it was 610mm Nikon maybe f22, 2 strobes in soft boxes.

Big Packard shutter, so about 1/25th or less.

That's an 8X10 scan on V700 laid right on glass.

I should touch up the hairline.

Got one more to develop from the same holder.

I forgot i left the film in...2 years ago...

[leondf]

Thoughts regarding shooting portraits using 11x14 x-ray film with a Commercial Deardorff.

X-Ray film:

11x14 Fuji Super HR-U Medical X-ray Film for 50 cents a sheet. Who could resist? I have been exposing it at ISO 100, developing for 6 min. with Xtol. At first I used trays but had issues with scratches and uneven development, so I bought some used X-ray film processing tanks and film hangers on ebay. The tanks were in bad shape, some leaking. I patched them with Flex-Seal. I now use 6 tanks: Xtol, stop, fix, hypo, wash, photoflow. Processing with continuous agitation is easy now and the results are great. The tanks are either 3-gallon or 5-gallon. They didn't come with covers. How to store the chemicals when not in use? I decided to store them in the tanks. I noticed that large plastic vacuum storage bags are just the right size for the tanks. I put each tank in a storage bag and placed a piece of wood on top of the plastic, on top of the liquid in the tank, forcing the air out of contact with the liquid. Then I used the vacuum cleaner to vacuum seal the bag. So, in effect, I have a floating cover tank.

11x14 optics:

Thanks to Tin Can I learned that the usual rule of using a longer than normal lens for portraiture doesn't necessarily apply to large format. So I've been using my 480 mm Apo-Ronar. Using my 480mm at magnification of 1:1 (distance 2x focal length) at f90 the total depth of field is about 4.8 inches, at f64 it is 3.5 inches, at f32 it is 1.7 inches, at f22 it is 1.2 inches. I am aware that some people like shallow depth of field for portraits. Personally, I like a significant depth of field. So, I try to shoot at f90 when possible. I have two Norman 4000PS power packs. My soft box reduces the light output of the flash, making f90 impossible, so I shoot bare bulb. I also must position the lights close to the subject. My light meter has max f stop of f90. So, I set the ISO to 25 and try to get f90. That will translate to f180 at ISO 100, which will convert to f90 due to the bellows adjustment factor.

Self-Portraits:

I live alone and it's not easy to get volunteers for experimentation, so I am left with self-portraits. With such a small depth of field it is crucial to get the focus right. I built a head brace extension for the chair I use so I can be sure to reproduce my head position. I hung a piece of cardboard with print on it and a hole for my nose and positioned it to occupy the plane of my eyes when my head is against the brace. That way I can focus on the cardboard and go back, remove the cardboard and put my head against the brace.

I like the results and have made portraits of my son and my ex. However, I feel the end result doesn't quite seem to have the subtle gradation of the T-max that I used years ago shooting 4x5. There are so many factors in play it could be any one of these factors. I'm printing on Ilford multi-grade, that could be the issue. Or maybe it's the Xtol. Any thoughts?

[Peter De Smidt]

I bet it's the film.

[Tin Can]

Sounds like you are preparing for volume.

I have a similar problem in my new location, few visitors happen.

Nonetheless, I persevere.

I need to copy your head rest and cardboard ideas.

I also plan to try shorter lenses 300, 360mm. Which can work too.