Demountable Partition Walls For Darkrooms

[Jay Decker]

Has anyone considered or actually installed demountable partition walls to carve a darkroom out of an existing room or basement area? (Demountable partition walls are frequently used in office buildings to carve up large areas into offices with prefabricated removal partition panels that are assembled to make walls.)

What was your experience positive or not?

Did you install the partition walls yourself or did you contract installation?

How long did it take to install the walls?

Do you consider this option cost effective over framed and sheet rocked walls?

[jp]

I have not tried it, but you have to consider a couple of things.

The big panels might not fit down your basement stairs or through other basement access. Evaluate your situation before buying.

Some office panels are partly fabric covered. This would not be good for a darkroom as they would hold dust. It's good in an office to dampen sound.

It's very easy, cost effective, and quick to build a 2x4 or 2x3 wall in a traditional method using 2' spacing and covering it with sheetrock board. It's easy to remove too if you ever change your needs. Probably $200 of materials tops.

[Colin Graham]

I've thought about something like this- http://www.a-wall.com/awall350.htm, but the ceiling transitions were an expensive snag, either needing a drop ceiling or custom valance to bridge the gaps. Just too pricey unless you really need the modularity. It was much cheaper to build a few walls myself.

[ic-racer]

I have been needing a wall for a long time. I'm glad I saw this thread, I'm going to get a quote from A-Wall and some of the other similar products. If I do it, I'll post the pictures.

In my case I don't want to permanently put in a wall made of 2x4s and sheetrock for home resale considerations.

[Bill Burk]

Some friends had a built-in darkroom in their garage when they bought their home. It felt claustrophobic and hot and took up a lot of room. They tore it down when they remodeled.

I kept that in mind when I built my current darkroom. I went the black felt curtain route - got Delta Muslin Mover system from B&H and mounted the tracks 89 inches above the floor. The darkroom area is about that wide and long, roughly a cube.

To block light at the top I have black felt runners dropping down 10 inches either side of the curtain.

I made a fake ceiling with roof tar paper and 1x2's. Darkness of the entire setup is not absolute but suitable for film developing in all conditions except bright afternoon daylight when the sun is hitting the door.

As soon as the prints or film are safe (I wait for the fix to be complete), I can draw the curtains and let in plenty of light and air.

Now it is a garage setup, so I have dust to contend with. I cannot hope to filter the air and establish positive air pressure. Thus I will never have a clean room.

[ic-racer]

I went the black felt curtain route - got Delta Muslin Mover system from B&H and mounted the tracks 89 inches above the floor..

I see the Muslin Mover system and it looks good, but what are you using for the light-proof curtain. Black felt? Where did you get that?

[Bruce Barlow]

I hung black plastic sheeting once, long ago. Worked fine with the lights off in the basement. Used a laundry tub as a sink, a piece of counter top for trays.

[Bill Burk]

Hi IC-Racer,
Just garden-variety black felt from Joanne's fabrics.

Takes 2 layers and still can see some light through. If I did it again I'd be more careful about the fabric. On the other hand, I just tossed it on the densitometer and two layers is over 6.0 so maybe it IS enough.

[shonejason]

I have some suggestion, these demountable partitions work well in almost any projects. The custom options and attachments can enhance your demountable partitioning systems. Which provides solutions that improve the safety, functionality and safety of facilities and increase their aesthetic appeal.

[Drew Wiley]

I use both permanent and removable walls. There was a city code reason for this as well as a practical need to minimize construction dust and conserve usable space. For the temporary walls I install 2X2 redwood stringers with removable screws (hex-head Tapcons in the concrete floor). Then I attach wiggle moulding with a narrow-crown stapler and stainless staples, then finally transluscent corrugated fiberglass panels just like a greenhouse. Clean, durable, and fire resistant. If that particular partition needs to be light-tight, I just use 6-mil black roll polyethylene over it.