I agree with JMO. I use some scrap Corian countertop material.
I agree with JMO. I use some scrap Corian countertop material.
A piece of 1/4" acrylic is enough.
Philip Ulanowsky
Sine scientia ars nihil est. (Without science/knowledge, art is nothing.)
www.imagesinsilver.art
https://www.flickr.com/photos/156933346@N07/
Philip Ulanowsky
Sine scientia ars nihil est. (Without science/knowledge, art is nothing.)
www.imagesinsilver.art
https://www.flickr.com/photos/156933346@N07/
Philip Ulanowsky
Sine scientia ars nihil est. (Without science/knowledge, art is nothing.)
www.imagesinsilver.art
https://www.flickr.com/photos/156933346@N07/
Thanks to all for the great ideas. One of them is sure to work out perfectly for me.
Philip Ulanowsky
Sine scientia ars nihil est. (Without science/knowledge, art is nothing.)
www.imagesinsilver.art
https://www.flickr.com/photos/156933346@N07/
I flatten prints in a dry mounting press between a couple of pieces of rag board, but a trick I use is after press platen is lifted, I let the sandwich sit for at least 30 seconds to allow the surface to set, but don't disturb it until it does (until completely cool)...
Various places I worked had a 1/4" thick stainless steel weight that had handles screwed to the top, and that was easy and precise to use, heavy enough for weight, and stayed clean...
Steve K
How about a Granite Cutting Board?
https://www.amazon.com/HealthSmart-G...+cutting+board
Zak Baker
zakbaker.photo
"Sometimes I do get to places just when God's ready to have somebody click the shutter."
Ansel Adams
Most plate steel has contaminants. My own lower surface is a piece of smooth melamine - relatively inert, with plate glass atop. Some (not all) drymount
tissues actually form their permanent bond during cooling. But most failures I see are due to people not properly pre-drying their print or mount board.
I use heavy glass to cool and flatten the prints. Glued on handles make it user friendly.
Ron McElroy
Memphis
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