Wetplate - Where to go from here?

[TroyG]

Hello, community,

I just recently shot my very first tintypes. I used to bostick & sullivan starter kit and much to my joy I've gotten a semi-decent picture every time. My collodion pouring is getting better every time but there's still a fair amount of crazy artifacts in the images and I have no real idea how to improve my photos.
Here are my first few shots:





In the photos of those far more professional than I, the photos are very clean and even, whereas mine are far from it. Is this stuff a chemistry related problem or my technique in applying the chemistry? Any and all advice would be immensely appreciated. Or, if there's resources/reading out there that may help me in my journey I would love to know where they are!

[paulbarden]

Those plates are actually quite good, if it weren’t for the marks coming in from the edges. Typically, marks like that are the result of contaminants (dirt, grease) coming off your hands or a dirty plate holder, or somewhere that the sensitized plate came in contact with a less then clean object.
So, here are some pertinent questions...
- did you filter the silver nitrate solution before using it the first time?
- did you iodize your silver bath before making your first plate?
- are you using a dip tank or a tray for your silver bath, and was the tray/tank brand new and very clean?
- are you using a fresh piece of paper towel to wipe the backs of your plates after they come out if the silver bath? Also, when you take the plate out of the bath, rest one corner point on a clean piece of paper towel to blot excess. Never allow the paper towel to come in contact with the collodion side of the plate when wiping off excess silver.
- is your chemistry within temperature limits? (Not colder than 60F or warmer than 80F)
- how are you applying developer to the plate?
- are you blotting your plate holder dry between plates? The silver solution that accumulates in the corners and edges of the plate holder can creep onto the surface of the next plates and cause contamination marks. Always blot the plate holder interior dry so there’s no silver nitrate solution lingering in there between plates.
- what are you using for a plate holder, and how clean is it? Has it ever had other ( non wet plate) chemistry come in contact with it?

I can see a gloved fingerprint on one of those plates, so I’m thinking you also need to at least wipe your gloves dry every time you make a plate. It’s almost guaranteed that your marks are caused by contamination occurring at some point after your plate comes out of the silver bath. You need to be absolutely fastidious in making sure things are clean and free of contaminants from step to step. Your collodion pour looks just fine. Your problem is happening after (or less likely, during) the sensitization.

Have you taken a workshop, or are you learning from the B&S kit instructions? I strongly recommend you get Quinn’s eBook version of Chemical Pictures, which includes many excellent video tutorials embedded.

Paul

[Willie]

http://studioq.com/chemical-pictures-book/

One good book that may help. Quinn Jacobson also does workshops. If not his, Osterman's and John Coffer who teach very good workshops.

http://www.collodion.org/

http://www.johncoffer.com/


Avoid the "instant experts" who have been doing wet plate for a few months and know it all. Go with an experienced individual with a good track record. They have made the mistakes, seen them and can really cut the time it will take you to do clean images. More than worth the cost in saved chemistry and materials over time.

[paulbarden]

PS: have you tried to wipe the edge marks off the plate after taking it out if the fixer? Put the plate in the wash water and take a cotton ball, soak it in the wash water and VERY GENTLY wipe the marked areas on the sides of the plate. Odds are that 90% of the contamination marks will wipe off. But be very gentle! It’s easy to damage the collodion if you apply any force to this process.
You probably can’t clean your existing plates - you have to do this wiping process right after retrieval from the fix. Once it dries, it’s stuck on the plate.

[Mark Sawyer]

...You probably can’t clean your existing plates - you have to do this wiping process right after retrieval from the fix. Once it dries, it’s stuck on the plate.

The white veiling so prevalent in the top plate shown may well wipe off dry. It may leave a shadow underneath, especially when this heavy, whether wiped off wet or dry. But many people like the heavy artifacts, now known as the "Sally Mann Effect".

Troy, your plates will improve with experience, as you figure out what your own problems are, (it's hard to trouble-shoot over the internet). But start by checking to see your plate holder is clean and dry with each plate. And as has been said, a workshop will speed your improvement process greatly.

[Pere Casals]

IMHO glass preparation is critical. Here "Preparation of the plate" section explains it: https://unblinkingeye.com/Articles/WPC/WPC2/wpc2.html

[TroyG]

Wow, thank you all so much for your wealth of information and very kind words! This has restored some of my ever wavering faith in humanity, thank you!

Paul, I appreciate you offering so many points to check!
1) No, I did not filter the silver nitrate before my first plate, I sort of assumed I wouldn't have to until I get it contaminated with collodion, but I will go filter it now!
2) All I did to the nitrate bath when I got it was adjust the pH. The specific gravity was where the B&S instructions said it should be. I'll read up on ionizing it in Chemical Pictures, which I bought!
3) For my first two plates I used a tray from my darkroom and my third and fourth plates I used my SP445. I cleaned both thoroughly before use. I'll be getting a separate tray soon since this step seems to be most important to keep separate.
4) I am using a clean paper towel to clean the back of the plate. I was just tapping the corner of the plate with the paper towel, but if resting is better I'll do that!
5) Should be within limits. Its winter in Florida so it's 70s out!
6) To apply developer I just sorta hold the plate flat and dump developer on it. Wasn't super clear on how to do it, but I'm sure this book will help!
7+8) I didn't think to clean out the plate holder. Sounds so obvious now that you mention it! I guess I need to stop thinking of it like a film holder. Im using an old Graflex #1234 Pack film adapter that I glued some foam into using silicon adhesive. Perhaps the choice of foam was a poor one since it could be absorbing the chemistry, eh?

The knowledge that got me this far was primarily the B&S instruction kit, reinforced by a few different articles and videos that I found bouncing around the internet. I'm very happy to have found this book, Chemical Pictures! I don't know of any Wetplate shooters in the Orlando area but I was going to make a pilgrimage to the local camera shop to see if the proprietor of that establishment knows of any so that I might meet and learn from them.

I'll also give wiping off any contaminants a shot!

Again, thank you all kindly for this information.

[paulbarden]

Troy,
I also meant to ask if you are making plates on aluminum "trophy plate" (the black enameled aluminum stuff you peel plastic film off and its ready to go) or are you pouring onto glass plates? I assumed you were making tintypes on aluminum, but perhaps not? If its glass you're using, you have to be very VERY specific in how you prep and clean the glass. Quinn goes into great detail on this point in his book (and demonstrates it in a video), so I'm glad you got yourself a copy of Chemical Pictures. It will save you a lot of trouble!

Regarding point #2: I just scanned the B&S instructions and you're right! Nowhere does it mention iodizing the silver bath before you use it for the first time. (But it does mention filtering it before using it for the first time, under the heading "Filter The Silver Nitrate on a Regular Basis", further into the instructions.) Now that you've used the silver bath a few times, the bath is probably as iodized as it needs to be. The iodides in the salted collodion migrate into the silver bath as you exposed the bath to coated plates, and this is an essential interaction.

Point #3: get dedicated trays for wet plate work, do NOT use trays that have been used for traditional darkroom materials. You can get contamination problems using trays that have been used for other processes. Have a dedicated tray for both developer and for fix (and for the silver bath, if you are using trays rather than a dip style bath box)

Pouring developer: lots of demos showing how to do this. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=7Uz2l-a-LL0

As for the plate holder, you should consider getting a proper plate holder, such as the one Lund Photographics makes: https://www.lundphotographics.com/cg...tion&key=FH001
Its a good idea to blot away any silver nitrate solution that leaks off the plate into the holder every time you shoot a plate. Its very easy to get contamination marks and streaks if you've got old silver nitrate coming in contact with newly sensitized plates.

Good luck!
Paul

Paul

[cuypers1807]

A workshop is really a must to eliminate the variables. As wonderful and fun as it is, it is really caveman photography.
If you pour a plate (glass) and leave it in your silver bath overnight, then filter your silver bath, most of that junk on your plates will go away. Wiping out the plate holder each time between shots will also cut down on extra silver on the plates. If you use gloves for more than one plate at a time make sure they are at least dry when you pull your plates out of the silver. It is very easy to contaminate plates. Good Luck.

[TroyG]

Thank you all again for the sharing of wisdom! I took all of your instructions and also read "Chemical Pictures" cover to cover and I am happy to report that my plates have improved tremendously!!!



Certainly there are refinements to be made (hesitation line, bleck!) but I am in a much better place now than I was. The majority of my problems were I was overdeveloping and over fixing the plates. Seeing Quinn do it in the videos helped me better understand every step in the process. Now that I am not over fixing my plates they have a beautiful warm tone that I very much appreciate.

Again, Thank you all for sharing your wisdom. I look forward to shooting many more plates and continuing to improve. This thread has been instrumental in my progress and I cannot be grateful enough!