Where to start for an 8x10 enlarger?

[John Kasaian]

You can find large black trays at builder's supply stores, used for mixing mortar and stuff like that, in multiple sizes.

Unicolor made some pretty large daylight print tubes, I think up to 20x24 or at least 16x20. As much as watching a print be born in tray is fun, the smaller space and chemical requirements of a Unicolor may be a viable alternative for you.

[bob carnie]

Unless you are a masochist, don't use trays larger than 20x24 -- use tubes or troughs. You'll save space, chemicals, money, fumes, spills, etc. -- and your sanity.

I agree with space, but I use over size trays with absolutely no issue, I also use troughs but I prefer the trays if I can make it work. I may be certifiable, need to have my head examined.

[Drew Wiley]

Big trays require big sinks. I prefer to make my own oversize trays. Plastics shops in big cities generally sell scratched or otherwise visually blemished sheets of Plexiglas, Sintra, ABS etc at a discount. Some stores like Tap Plastics might also offer simple courses in do-it-yourself fabrication. I do have a few store-bought big trays too; but the good ones are expensive. Mortar trays are thin and flimsy, but might be OK for med sized prints.

[bob carnie]

All my big trays were made with thick grey plexi and welded together ... many companys that sell plexi will work to a plan and make them for you, mine have handles for lifting (agitation) which is a huge bonus.

[Morten]

Playing around with the basically free 8X10 modification to my Durst 138! This enlarger came with a colour head, and when I last used it the fuses popped and the colour head had this interesting smell of to hot insulation!! Thus it was put away waiting for a LED light-head modification. Tried that on my Focomat IIc MF enlarger with great success this autumn, and with some spare time over x-mas :-)

Quickly removed the colour head and keeping the lightmixing boxes, the top light opening is approx 24 x 20 cm, nor quite 8x10" but close. Distance to lens approx 240mm'ish Thus raising the negative a wee bit might do the trick.. And it does!! with a 240mm lens I'm able to get enlargements up to 100x80cm or 40x32", at that stage the lens is in the maximum up position, thus a recessed lensboard would be required. Not sure I can get a 240/9 lens into a Durst recessed board, we see if a cheap one pops up either here or on ebay.

So if you could get your hand on a Durst 138, you at least have a stable chassis to start with !

[jon.oman]

Playing around with the basically free 8X10 modification to my Durst 138! This enlarger came with a colour head, and when I last used it the fuses popped and the colour head had this interesting smell of to hot insulation!! Thus it was put away waiting for a LED light-head modification. Tried that on my Focomat IIc MF enlarger with great success this autumn, and with some spare time over x-mas :-)

Quickly removed the colour head and keeping the lightmixing boxes, the top light opening is approx 24 x 20 cm, nor quite 8x10" but close. Distance to lens approx 240mm'ish Thus raising the negative a wee bit might do the trick.. And it does!! with a 240mm lens I'm able to get enlargements up to 100x80cm or 40x32", at that stage the lens is in the maximum up position, thus a recessed lensboard would be required. Not sure I can get a 240/9 lens into a Durst recessed board, we see if a cheap one pops up either here or on ebay.

So if you could get your hand on a Durst 138, you at least have a stable chassis to start with !

Interesting! Keep us informed about your progress. Photos of any modifications would be appreciated.

[axs810]

I would love to see some photos as well!

[Drew Wiley]

I modified a 138 chassis to accept a high-output 8X10 enlarger, but only use it for up to 20X24 b&w prints. For color work or anything bigger, I use actual taller 8X10 units. I have a 240 lens, but prefer to use longer than "normal" enlarging lenses.

[Drew Wiley]

I meant 8X10 coldlight, actually 12x12.

[Morten]

I would love to see some photos as well!

Did the images get there?

First image is the current set up, second image is the complete colour head where I removed the top part.. will post image of the light opening..