My perfect fixed lens LF camera - decision 1, the lens.

[Corran]

Dirk, a member here, has already modded that camera:

https://dirkfletcher.squarespace.com/cameras/

[xkaes]

I don't know why this is happening to me, because I'm not interested in these types of cameras, but I just ran into the DAYI 4x5 camera. It definitely falls into this P&S category. Given the price, I assume it has more bells & whistles, flexibility, etc. Maybe it even makes coffee in the morning.

https://www.google.com/search?q=dayi...ient=firefox-b

Looks like we need a list/page somewhere on the numerous LFPS cameras -- or is there one already?

[adrianlambert]

I'm back. The reason for only two focus positions is that you could do this very simply...yet precisely. Sounds important as I seem to remember the term "tack sharp" showing up somewhere on this thread. If it were me...I'd also incorporate a rear short bellows into a shallow rear frame, which would nest tightly against a middle frame for quick work - but would also allow for a combo of simple rear movements and additional closer focussing. For an idea of this look at a Linhof Technika back. Again...this could be simple, precise, and compact. I'm suddenly inspired...gotta do this!

Rear short bellows sounds like a great solution. I was thinking of a short extension behind the Harmon Titan cone hacked from the focus rack of a medium format press camera so not totally dissimilar.



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[adrianlambert]

I’m currently testing a camera I bought off of eBay. It’s a Polaroid 250 hack with a Fujinon 120mm lens. A bit longer than I’d hoped for but it’s rangefinder seems to be very accurate so it’s very much a working p&s large format. The maker seems to have resolved the slight crop that I understand the Chamonix Saber has. So it’s a full frame 4x5 image. I’ve inquired with the maker as to whether he thinks a 105mm could be installed with a modified rf cam. His response was quite promising as he two likes that focal length and had considered this so is now doing the calculations as to whether it is feasible. The camera I’ve purchased off him is the 12th he’s built so seems to be refined enough to lead me to think that if anyone can do it he can so I’ve offered him a commission and a lens to build it if it’s at all doable.


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[Jac@stafford.net]

I’m currently testing a camera I bought off of eBay. It’s a Polaroid 250 hack with a Fujinon 120mm lens. [...]

Thanks for the update, Adrian!

[EdSawyer]

The saber doesn't have a crop so much as just a slightly different edge treatment to the negatives. Still full 4x5 image, really.

I saw that one on ebay, it looked like basically a copy of the Saber, and pretty well done for a DIY type piece. I think it's a 125mm fuji lens though, not a 120 right? That might have something to do with it.

I would be surprised if a 105 works without modifying the struts somehow, or using a majorly recessed lensboard, but maybe. Keep us posted.

(I have a Saber with 120 apo symmar, and enjoy it a lot)

-Ed

[adrianlambert]

The saber doesn't have a crop so much as just a slightly different edge treatment to the negatives. Still full 4x5 image, really.

I saw that one on ebay, it looked like basically a copy of the Saber, and pretty well done for a DIY type piece. I think it's a 125mm fuji lens though, not a 120 right? That might have something to do with it.

I would be surprised if a 105 works without modifying the struts somehow, or using a majorly recessed lensboard, but maybe. Keep us posted.

(I have a Saber with 120 apo symmar, and enjoy it a lot)

-Ed

You are quite correct. It is a 125mm Fujinon NSW f5.6 lens. The flange distance according to http://brucebarrett.com/large_format..._Coverage.html is 120mm. The Fujinon 105 NSW that I have is listed as having a 100mm flange distance. So that’s a 20mm recessed lens board compared to the current lens?

I have to say that this camera feels great. Lightweight but stable. If it weren’t for the festive season I’d have found time already to process the 4 sheets I shot a week and a half ago to see how it’s RF is working. The one issue is that the springs that secure the DD are tensioned a little too tightly so it requires a bit of a knack to get the DD out again. Also maybe a denser wood might have facilitated a better finish on the GG insert but I’m not too bothered as I just want it as a tool rather than as a display item.


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[xkaes]

You are quite correct. It is a 125mm Fujinon NSW f5.6 lens. The flange distance according to http://brucebarrett.com/large_format..._Coverage.html is 120mm. The Fujinon 105 NSW that I have is listed as having a 100mm flange distance. So that’s a 20mm recessed lens board compared to the current lens?

The numbers cited are for the NW lenses, not the NSW lenses. The NW lenses are often called NWS lenses, and the NSW lenses are often called NSWS lenses, which leads to endless confusion.

[adrianlambert]

The numbers cited are for the NW lenses, not the NSW lenses. The NW lenses are often called NWS lenses, and the NSW lenses are often called NSWS lenses, which leads to endless confusion.

I recall that from your website. I’m quoting from the list whereas my lenses state NW I think. So am I correct with the numbers or still misunderstanding this?


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[xkaes]

The numbers you cited are correct, but the lens designation is off. The designation on Bruce's site are correct. It's easy to type NSW when it should be NWS. I do it all the time.

Fuji messed things up after their W series. They updated the lenses and called them "NW" even though the lenses are still marked "W" and the boxes are marked "NWS" for "New Wide Series". And when their SW series -- "Super Wide" -- was updated, it became "NSW" for "New Super Wide".

Totally confusing. NWS vs NSW -- very similar but completely different.