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Thread: FomaPan Sheet Film Question

  1. #1

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    FomaPan Sheet Film Question

    Can I first say that I do not use a darkroom, after the development, I scan.

    I hear a few people talk about how FomaPan film build sup contrast quickly.

    If I understand them right, I believe they are saying that the contrast on the negative has built up early on in the developer.

    Would I be correct in saying that to reduce this contrast, I should be looking at reducing how often I invert the developing tank during the developing time and maybe the number of inversions.

    Thanks

    Ian

  2. #2

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    Re: FomaPan Sheet Film Question

    Time, temperature, agitation, developer and developer dilution all affect contrast. So do film characteristics. Pick your variable.

    You have a film that builds contrast quickly? Reduce time, reduce agitation, increase dilution of developer (which will affect time.) You'll have to do some testing.

  3. #3

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    Re: FomaPan Sheet Film Question

    Quote Originally Posted by IanBarber View Post
    Would I be correct in saying that to reduce this contrast, I should be looking at reducing how often I invert the developing tank during the developing time and maybe the number of inversions.
    Not as a starting point, no. Reducing developing time, & increasing dilution of developer would be where to start.

    Look at the data sheet & see the time/gamma curve relationship - http://foma-cz.cs4.cstech.cz/en/fomapan-100 and http://www.foma.cz/en/catalogue_bw_p...ng_information (pg.6) for some pointers on where to go. Helpfully the data sheet also gives an idea of effective film speed at different gammas. Fomapan is somewhat faster developing than some films - and because of this it'll build contrast in less time. That's all there is to it. For what it's worth, 6-7 mins in ID-11/D-76 1+1 at 20c is likely to be pretty good for most normal, non-studio contrast ratios if you are printing on MG paper. Effective film speed in the 64-80 range from the datasheet.

  4. #4

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    Re: FomaPan Sheet Film Question

    I develop Foma 100 regularly using a somewhat high dilution of Pyrocat-HD following a minimal agitation technique, and I've never had any issue with contrast getting out of hand. But, a bit of testing using your developer and technique will tell you all you need to know.

  5. #5

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    Re: FomaPan Sheet Film Question

    The easiest variable to change when wanting to reduce contrast is development time. After that, and I mean, if that doesn't work, then developer dilution would be my next choice. Changing developers is a third choice, especially if you change to a developer that is known for taming highlight or its compensating effects.

    Temperature is also a variable, but best standardized. Time is easier to deal with.

    Altering the agitation scheme can have other, unwanted consequences, i.e., unevenness. It's also the least controllable of the variables. Once you've arrived at an agitation method that works for you, stick with it. If you need less contrast, adjust elsewhere.

    Best,

    Doremus

  6. #6

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    Re: FomaPan Sheet Film Question

    Fomapan 100 is problematic with many developers and developer dilutions. Soot and chalk has been the most frequent complaint.

    I have had no problem at all with contrast using HC110 at 1:64 dilution, D23 or Xtol.

    However, try as I might I can't get any decent images with this film. I simply do not like it's look at all. For want of a better term, everything I shoot with it has a gritty, "dirty" look. It's simply not an emulsion I can get under control. Equivalent scenes on TMax 100, TMax 400, Acros, or FP4 are fine.

    If you use it, I'd like to know your experiences.

    Rich

  7. #7

    Re: FomaPan Sheet Film Question

    Quote Originally Posted by Rich14 View Post
    Fomapan 100 is problematic with many developers and developer dilutions. Soot and chalk has been the most frequent complaint.

    I have had no problem at all with contrast using HC110 at 1:64 dilution, D23 or Xtol.

    However, try as I might I can't get any decent images with this film. I simply do not like it's look at all. For want of a better term, everything I shoot with it has a gritty look. It's simply not an emulsion I can get under control. Equivalent scenes on TMax 100, TMax 400, Acros, or FP4 are fine.

    If you use it, I'd like to know your experiences.

    Rich
    Rich I've come pretty close to taming Foma100. I use a semi developing method with xtol 1+2
    less is more with this film but I really feel it's a sleeper. another film to try is the 4x5 film from the New55 people. it's VERY nice too and not expensive

  8. #8

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    Re: FomaPan Sheet Film Question

    Rich, I've not had any problem taming Foma 100 and prints on Adox Lupex developed in Amidol are something to behold...IMHO. I do have to reduce highlight density more than I normally would for "standard" printing papers, such as Ilford MGWT (which I like a lot, too), because Lupex has a somewhat strong inherent contrast. Please understand I'm talking 8x10 contact prints. Is Foma 100 good for everything? Of course not. I use FP4 when I anticipate plus/minus development, and Acros when I know I'll be shooting very slow shutter speeds. I guess it might be pertinent to mention that I only shoot Foma 100 in 4x5 or 8x10; mostly, the latter.

  9. #9

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    Re: FomaPan Sheet Film Question

    Peter,

    Thanks for the suggestion about Foma 100 and Xtol 1+2. Actually, I have been using Arista EDU Ultra 100 from Freestyle, which I have been told is repackaged Foma 100 (at a lower price).

    I'll give the New55 Atomic X a trial. It's only $1.00 an exposure - the same as Arista EDU Ultra 100.

    Rich

  10. #10
    Goldman
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    Re: FomaPan Sheet Film Question

    I am using 4x5 Foma 100 for the last 2 years. I like the film. It is very "strict" about the developer temperature. I use D76 (1:1) at 20 degrees C. If the temperature is above 22 it is always getting contrasty. One time I tested a 35mm film and I think I did over agitation and it appeared contrasty.

    Bill

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