FYI I always use 1000ml with the Expert tanks, I really think this will help...Also just after I pour in the developer I take the tank off the machine and manually invert the tank a few times to get the chemicals on the film asap then put back on the machine to finish.. I also split my developer into two sessions 1000 ml for 1/2 the time and another 1000ml for the last half.
Like Richard, I have processed many, many sheets of FP4+ in a 3006 drum on my CPP-2 without issue. The mottling issue to me suggests to fast rotation of the drum causing either foaming and/or increased aerial oxidation of the developer. Lots of good suggestions here. These types of problems can be somewhat of a pain to resolve...good luck!
BTZS Tubes for Pyrocat.
I don't use drums, so I'm just conjecturing here.
However, in order to get a pattern of foam/bubbles on the neg like you show, the negative has to sit still a while with the bubbles sticking to it. That would point to both foaming developer and a substantial amount of time where the tank/tube is not being agitated. The fact that you mention that letting the film sit less time before "rinsing" reduced the problem supports this.
If the tank is partially filled with developer, i.e., if the negatives are not completely submerged all the time, and you let the film sit for a while, even a very short time, you are likely to get artifacts. If you drain the tank and some foam remains, and you let that sit a while, you are likely to get artifacts. You really need to make sure you are a) keeping the film submerged or moving during processing and b) not letting the tank sit after draining, especially after development. That means pouring out developer and pouring in whatever else comes next without a rest period at all.
I would recommend that you use a weak stop bath as well. If you're worried about affecting the fixer, don't, TF-4 does just fine with a stop. If you're still worried, rinse with water after the stop.
The fact that your developer appears to be foaming indicates that the agitation is too vigorous. Slow down your motor if you can.
A side note: one of the advantages of using pyro developers is the edge effects that they can produce, which increase apparent sharpness in the final print. Continuous agitation nullifies this. You could hand agitate your tank at intervals and promote the formation of edge effects. That would require that the negatives are completely submerged during the rest periods though, which may be impractical or uneconomical.
If Bob Carnie uses the Expert tanks, then maybe he can give some insight into a proper and successful work flow.
Best,
Doremus
One of the issues with PMK - (I have only used this type of Pyro since the days Gordon Hutchings introduced his great book) and I pretty much follow his methods to a tee). Is foaming issues and road ruts.
some of the following are deviations.
One thing that I immediately grasped about Mr Hutching's writings which I believe to be true and in my small world the most important detail about PMK is the tannin effect, and I have seen
how as the development progresses , highlights harden , midtones come up and finally shadows reveal themselves. Most PMK combinations I use are 14 min normal and I think this developer
oxidizes or wears out very fast. This is significant as I have learned the hard way that unless I took some action the film was less than optimal for my printing needs.
I think this phenomena is actually the most important benifit of this process and as well the achilles heel.
If you do not cover the film quickly and completely to allow the developer to reach all areas of your film run you can indeed get artifacts- therefore I use full tank, as well hand agitate for the first 15 seconds of development off the machine.
I also am aware that the drums must be completely level front to back or you will get shorted somewhere. This is very important factor with all film
I also have reduced rotation as some have suggested.
I use distilled water presoak, and distilled water to make the developers- the rest is tap water
I split the development in two to compensate for exhaustion of developer over a long development time - my normal is 14 min - push is 18 min - drop 10-12 min. ( 7min 1000ml dump- 7min 1000ml dump)
I use the first developer as final stain as per GH recommendations , many workers here do not recommend the stain step , but I have always done this and have seen wonderful prints hanging .
When using any 120 film I never and I mean never double roll film as per Jobos recommendations as I have only seen problems with this .. the internal roll is too close to the center of the tank and
I have seen foaming marks like what the OP shows in his initial post . I will never do this again, the last time I did this I got foaming issues and that was that.
Also with 120 film I have seen what I Call Road Ruts going in the direction of the agitation... It took four months to figure out initial hand agitation and distilled water for all developers, this caused me much
injury.
I hope this helps
Bob
Thanks again for all the help everyone, I really appreciate it! I'm going to try another test run tonight with a distilled water presoak (as Bob suggested, I had been using tap water), and probably double the amount of developer to a full liter (as others suggested). I've got a speed controller ordered so I can reduce the rpm of my motor base. I had the same initial thought as Doremus, that I had let the negatives sit too long after draining the developer before moving on to the next step, so for my second test I made sure to refill the tank after draining immediately. That didn't fix the issue, so I'm hoping it's just a case of not using enough developer or too vigorous agitation.
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