New Film User

[Steve Barber]

The best place to start if you already have a Nikon or Canon full-frame DSLR is to buy a late model autofocus film camera from your chosen brand. I would get an EOS 3 or 5 if you are a Canon user or an F90X or F100 if you use Nikon. These cameras are unloved and go for less money than their chrome and black counterparts, but don't be fooled, they are formidable photographic tools. All of your DSLR lenses will work on those cameras and you will have most of the mod cons of a digital camera, the only thing you won't get is an LCD on the back. You can just work as you did before and get great photos, only now they will be on film. Don't scrimp on cheap film. Use a mainstream colour or black and white film and use it consistently, don't chop and change from one film to another. Tri-X is probably the film you should choose. Develop film yourself and use your DSLR as your scanner, and you can see your images for pennies per roll. Move up in format once you are comfortable shooting 35mm. wEvery time you move up in format you have to be a bit more meticulous. So start easy and work your way up.

What he said!

[chassis]

Welcome! Jump in with both feet and have fun.

[Pere Casals]

Welcome! Jump in with both feet and have fun.

+1

[Robert Bowring]

I think that 35mm is a good place to start. My advice would be to get a copy of David Vestal's book "The Craft of Photography". I am sure you could find a copy on Amazon or eBay. If there is a school in your area that still has classes on film photography take a class. As long as your Minolta camera works ok, it will be all the camera you will need to learn on. Once you get a feel for film the move to a larger format will be much easier.

[Qamaro]

I second Roberts comment about taking a class at a local Community College. Since you know digital an Intro to Photography class (typical taught with film only) should be a breeze as you pass through the basics of photography BUT, it will give you access to their lab chemicals, equipment, darkrooms and even camera equipment check-out privileges (35mm, at some schools MF or LF). It basically gives you some great opportunity to practice. In most states its pretty cost effective to boot at $30-50 per unit range (4 unit class = $120 - 200 for a semester = 15 weeks of use)....

I did this as a refresher about 10 years back as I learned to shoot film from my dad but never paid attention and came back to photography in the digital age but, took an Intro class just to practice the film processing aspect.

[macmaster77]

It's great that you are going to wade into the pool. I'm a photo instructor for a couple of community colleges. I teach in the "Lifelong Learning" area. I'm like the original poster, the majority of my background is digital. I photographed for magazines for 10 years and it was all digital with off camera flash. This really helped me understand the relationship of ISO, aperture and shutter speed mixed with different light powers. About a year ago, I had this idea that I wanted to print really big photos. I found the only way to get the size with the detail that I wanted was going to be 4x5 or bigger. I read and watched everything I could get my hands on to understand what the whole picture was going to be from loading film to the end of the developing process. After six months of research I took the plunge on an Zone VI 8x10. Some said I had really lost it. Going from digital to 8x10? I have to say, the time I took to research and make lists, made it much easier to understand the workflow.

I had two big issues that many folks here helped me with when I was getting started. First, was that I was trying to "average" and do zones with the light meter. After some trial and error, I now spot meter the darkest areas and expose for those. I didn't realize that how you expose for film was the reverse for film! The second issue was that I was using Ilfosol 3 developer. The short story is that I have found it to be very aggressive and it was building contrast too quickly for my taste. I switched to Kodak D76 and voila, much better. After many months of trying things, I have settled on Ilford FP4+ with D76. Many of the scenes that I photograph are high contrast. The FP4+ tone curve really allows me to captures scenes of dynamic ranges of 8-10 stops.

I have no idea if this helps or not. I realize most sane folks won't go from digital to 8x10. For my purpose, I'm now making prints that are 40x50 and bigger and I love them. I have a friend who bought a Mamiya 7II (120) and he shoots jazz bands with it. Very portable and he can make a large print from those negatives. I hope the OP finds what tool will work best for his application. Enjoy the journey, the folks here are great!

[seezee]

I didn't realize that how you expose for film was the reverse for film!

I imagine you meant to write "I didn't realize that how you expose for film was the reverse for digital!"

[macmaster77]

I imagine you meant to write "I didn't realize that how you expose for film was the reverse for digital!"

Ah, you are correct, it was late when I wrote this. I should know better! Thanks for catching it!

Spencer