To solve this problem with the 183S I put a ND filter into the filter drawer. If you are worried about heat you can also use the heat absorbing glass filter (or add some opal glass to it) that slides in between the filter tray and the bulb.
To solve this problem with the 183S I put a ND filter into the filter drawer. If you are worried about heat you can also use the heat absorbing glass filter (or add some opal glass to it) that slides in between the filter tray and the bulb.
Make a print at F16 and F32 compare the prints side by side. That is the way everyone does it.Originally Posted by Irishvoyageur
I mount my lens board onto a bellows with a mirrorless digital camera & view enlarged digital images looking for distortion, corner focus, light drop-off, etc. I stick with f/8 or f/11. F/16 is usable but I don't use 32, 22, 5.6, or wide open (except to focus)
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By far the simplest solution is to buy yourself a few 75W bulbs, to replace the 150W when needed. Note that there is also a 250W bulb in the pseudo-Photocrescenta series, which is still occasionally available. That covers the rare possibility that the enlarger can cope with the heat and that you want to make huge enlargements!
Don't forget to add a blower for bulbs over 200 W I use one regardless of wattage. Also the G series bulbs have large envelopes and you can get them in different wattages.
There's thousands of these floating around for a 212 bulb
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