Durst Laborator S-45 Special first use

[Irishvoyageur]

I have this old resurrected enlarger which I believe is similar to the Durst 138. I just started using this enlarger with PH212 light source. This is a smaller bulb than the original and only 150 watts. When I enlarged to make an 8x10 print, I had to stop down to F32 to get a printing time of about 25-30 seconds. I am not using any filters and am using the standard condensing lenses (latico 200 and 240). I am wondering if I am compromising the quality (sharpness) of my enlargement by using such a small aperature? This is my first time at printing so I need all the help I can get. Thank you!

[Luis-F-S]

Try to get a dimmer or a transformer to decrease the voltage, thus lower the light intensity of the bulb. This will allow you to print at a larger aperture. You can also try a G40 bulb, it's 150 watts and a much larger envelope (bulb size) which should give better coverage. L

[loonatic45414]

I built a dimmer knob & switch box. Switch in one position is full bright for focusing, then switch to variable for printing.

I try to stay on f/8 around 20 seconds which allows burning & dodging without cooking the negative. Makes the bulb last much longer too.

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[koraks]

I ran into the same issue with a Durst 138 with a 250W bulb. I just screwed in a 75W or a 150W bulb and went my merry way.

[Irishvoyageur]

Thanks all! I will look into obtaining or making a dimmer. Would using some type of neutral filter work as well in the filter holder near the lamp source?

[loonatic45414]

If you used a gel filter it would likely discolor or melt over time. My bulb is expensive & hard to find, so the dimmer was feasible. If you have a standard screw bulb, just find a lower wattage one.

I would recommend one made for enlarging, since they're carefully coated for the right color temperature, also a lot of household ones have a clear spot at the base and aren't fully coated. Maybe someone else could comment on the feasibility of using a standard light bulb, whether 3200K or daylight balanced. I saw a cold light head with a fluorescent source once, but those remain glowing a bit after being turned off. I'm not sure I'd like that.

If I lived in a remote place, I don't think it would be a major issue although having access to a special enlarger bulb, I'd prefer that.

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[cowanw]

My enlarger has a sheet of frosted milky plastic that undoubtedly decreases light transmission.

[LabRat]

Using a dimmer on the lamp changes the color temp and shifts the spectrum towards red, so an increased cut in blue/green, but can throw MG or color balance off...

As suggested, putting something in the light path, or a lower wattage lamp would be better...

Steve K

[Luis-F-S]

You can also use a longer lens to raise the head a bit and cut down on the light. If your print looks good I wouldn't worry about it.

[loonatic45414]

Using a dimmer on the lamp changes the color temp and shifts the spectrum towards red, so an increased cut in blue/green, but can throw MG or color balance off...

As suggested, putting something in the light path, or a lower wattage lamp would be better...

Steve K

I hadn't thought about color.

I do black & white only for the moment. Even so, I will have to factor any contrast into my standardizing.

It would be interesting to see if there's any shift with dimmable LED's.

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