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Thread: Best tutorial for color negative scanning

  1. #61

    Re: Best tutorial for color negative scanning

    Dan's book was a huge help - agree with this.

  2. #62

    Join Date
    Mar 2017
    Del City, OK

    Re: Best tutorial for color negative scanning

    That's pretty much what I do. At first, it was pretty hard. A lot of the confusion comes from any backlight or blocking mask that comes through in the scan, so I recommend cropping the image first to get rid of all of that. But once you get used to it, you can spot it in the histogram, and it's not hard to figure out where to set everything. I also use the curves tool to invert my file, saving me a step. Basically you just flip direction of the slope. One of the things I've noticed about inverting C41 film is it's usually a bad idea to rely on presets. Each photo is different, and they all benefit from some personalized tweaking.

    If you want, start off using the levels tool instead of the curves tool. The levels tool is a bit easier to use and can often give you fairly decent results in short time, even if you're a beginner. And once you get the hang of that, the curves tool won't be nearly as hard because the same basic principles will transfer over, you just have added options at your disposal now.

  3. #63
    Steven Ruttenberg's Avatar
    Join Date
    Sep 2017
    Mesa, AZ

    Re: Best tutorial for color negative scanning

    Quote Originally Posted by devb View Post
    I like Alex Burke's guide to scanning negatives on an Epson V700:
    I agree with this. My question is on scan resolution so not omly to make small print from file butvlarge one as well. If toblittle, even sharpest picture willlook like crap when displayed. I dont want to have 5 scans that are different resolutions to print different size images. Adjustme may not always be ssme or one to one.

  4. #64
    Steven Ruttenberg's Avatar
    Join Date
    Sep 2017
    Mesa, AZ

    Re: Best tutorial for color negative scanning

    Quote Originally Posted by Sasquatchian View Post
    Having scanned color negs with a variety of hardware and software combinations, I can say without hesitation that they both make a huge impact on your final scan quality. And if you're using inferior hardware AND crappy software, well, it's just a big waste of your time.

    The absolute best color (and black and white) neg scanning software I've ever used is Trident for the Howtek drum scanners. There is nothing else I've found that comes close, but it's not an intuitive path until and unless you have a complete understanding the digital imaging principles, the most basic of which are how to properly set your highlight and shadow points.

    The Alex Burke tutorial is filled with misinformation starting with his settings of using a non color managed gamma 1.8 choice and his final scan is just mediocre in quality. I'd say you'd be worse off following his advice that trying to figure it out on your own.

    One of the dirty little secrets of neg scanning is that you actually can use pretty much any good color transparency scanner profile as a point of reference when scanning color negs, assuming, of course, your software will let you use one in neg scanning mode. Since you're always working visually anyway, it's very important to use a well calibrated and profiled monitor and that you scanning software actually uses the monitor profile to display (notice that Alex has this option unchecked). You generally start with an auto ranging command that finds and sets the white and black points to neutral automatically. There is often a clipping control available as well, and you need to be able to override the auto neutral results when you know you want a color cast in the highlights or the shadows.

    When you're working on a color neg scan AND you have both a monitor profile and an input profile in the display path, you can then use that input profile as the source for your conversion to your working space and you will have a fully color managed color neg workflow. If your scanning software allows you to convert to working space on the fly you can use that feature. On Trident, that feature is broken, so I always just embed the scanner profile and convert in Photoshop, which is both faster and gives me the option to choose whatever is the most appropriate working space for a particular image.

    It took me years to get really good at scanning color negs, and that was with the best hardware and software out there. You need to have patience and really understand all of the control options available in whatever software package you're using. Good luck.
    I will disagree. I have seen his work and it by far outstrips most everything I have seen. Plus as I read thru this thread it is apparent there are as many opinions as there are...The point is, to find what works for you. Saying,y picture is color perfect or correct with landscapes and many other images is silly. Product photography is a different case.

    I prefer to have my image represent my vision, whether b/w or color, not what someone else considers to be technically correct. A technically correct landscape for example is emotionless, void of feeling and presence however some may like that and there is nothing wrong with that.

    I find that people who say so and so doesnt know what they are doing are no better than those they criticize.

    Unless doing commercial work, photography is an art form and it is the artist who needs to be happy with their work. Same it is for scanning. There of course is a right way so to speak and a wrong way, but if what you or some one else does works, then so be it

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