Depends a bit on film, but a very forgiving and cheap starting point is Rodinal + Maco stop/fixer.
Depends a bit on film, but a very forgiving and cheap starting point is Rodinal + Maco stop/fixer.
i've been using Rodinal with slow films (ISO 100) for many decades, and I love it.
Beautiful tones and excellent highlight separation.
- Leigh
If you believe you can, or you believe you can't... you're right.
I started with Caffenol, and TF-4 fixer, almost three years ago. I'm still happy with them, for all kinds of B&W film. I also like the Paterson + MOD54 combination, because I shoot medium format, too.Originally Posted by omnibook2100
Anybody has any suggestions for chemicals for B&W to start with? Thank you in advance.
The other thing I (re)use (which may not be recommended) is 91% isopropyl alcohol as a brief final bath, before hanging the film to dry, to prevent water spots.
It seems to be getting harder to get specific chemicals through the mail, so I like that I can get almost all of mine at the local supermarket and drug store.
Exactly my experience. Rodinal is consistent, predictable and has the best acutance. Rodinal is my friend.
.
And I forgot to mention...
Rodinal concentrate lasts forever even in partially-used bottles, as long as they're capped.
We've had reports of very old concentrate in corked bottles still working as expected.
This is particularly important to newbies who don't use large quantities of developer in a short period of time.
- Leigh
If you believe you can, or you believe you can't... you're right.
I may get some kick back for this, but if you can get Photographer's Formulary stuff in Europe for a reasonable price, their version of Kodak D-19 might be a way to go. It is very long lasting. It has a reputation for being super contrasty and grainy, I did not find it to be so. I use it 1:1 and with Fomapan 100 for 6 minutes at 68º get nice easy to print negatives. I found some old packets from Kodak and gave one a try and loved the first set of negs I got out of it. My two cents.
Sure. Check out Ken Lee's tech page, here: http://www.kennethleegallery.com/html/tech/index.php scroll down until you see "Very Simple Film Developer". It's D-23, available as a mix your own kit from Photographers Formulary. He recommends citric acid stop. He has a formula for TF-3 fixer. I recommend ordering TF-5, since it is easier and low odor.Anybody has any suggestions for chemicals for B&W to start with? Thank you in advance.
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Are you scanning or making wet prints? I scan, but for paper developer I've become interested in Agfa Eco-Pro. (I don't have any concerns about the ingredients.)
There are some other equally good choices for developers. Someone will be along in a minute suggesting HC-110, another good choice, easy to work with, shelf stable, etc. Someone else will suggest Xtol, especially if you scan film, but it's not very shelf stable. (Tip: only use distilled water to mix it.) It has a reputation for being pretty harmless.
(There are some bad choices for beginners. Developers that have hazardous ingredients, or bad byproducts. Developers that are easy to under or over mix. That sort of thing.)
Does anybody know if I can find the sp-445 developing tank for purchase in Europe? I am considering it as it takes less chemicals over the mod-54. So far I've searched but haven't found one. Any help would be appreciated. Thanks.
You have two options: fotoimpex.de in Germany is our main distributor in Europe. Numerous other photo shops carry it as well. I know that http://nicablad.com stocks them in France.
Began to large format photography, according to its own way of development, to select photographic equipment, this is the shortest cut.
If you take the film all immersed in the traditional development method, can choose B&W KING.
Is this website related comments, will be helpful to know the product.
http://www.largeformatphotography.in...nk-(Nikor-like)
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