Haha! Yes well... I came close to buying an 8x10 last week! Whew!
Funny Im thinking that I need an 8x10 also after having the Chamonix Hs 1 with the 4x5 and 5x7 and a 4x10 back standard for it. So Im only left to complete the set an 8x10.
I also just finished my portable Darkroom for wet plate and made it so it would have enough room for a 8x10 setup inside.
And after or while building this darkroom I was rolling over in my head how I wold make a ULF camera to say do 24" or larger formats with my own hand made camera. Now thats crazy. ITs like a drug...
Russ Fill
Director of Photography
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Haha! I wanted an 8x10 to do platinum prints and some silver contact prints but I’ll stick with 4x5 for awhile and scan.
I had the same conundrum a few years back.
I went with the F2 because it gives you the most capability. You don’t know in the future what lens you may want to use. The H1 is a slightly more “tuned” tool, less “general application”.
If you don’t know precisely where you may be going, what you’ll be exploring, and have no strong biases between the two types, I’d pick the one that offers you the most flexibility. That is the F2.
I have no complaints/regrets. I am sure H1 owners feel the same way. There’s probably not a wrong answer. They’re not that different at a high level.
Worst case, and I’m sure you won’t get there, you can probably resell after a few months/a year with little investment loss and change horses if you’re really unhappy.
About the F2-- there are two tabs on the bottom of the rear standard that when in the "out" position, stop the rear standard at vertical, so it's very easy to set up. But, unfolding / folding the front standard to put it away is a bit of a pain, and you have to remove the lens to do so, whereas on the H1, you don't have to do either.
However, the H1 can suffer from focus creep if you have it angled up or down with a large lens on it, and the H1 takes up more space when packed away.
I’m assuming there is a way to lock focus once you’ve set it?
Last edited by davidpalermo; 7-Jul-2020 at 21:43.
Beyond my budget!
There are locks, but it can be fiddly when doing fine focus.
From Chamonix's web site:
I'm sure it's not alone in this issue, so people have been dealing with it for years-- but it is one reason to prefer the rear worm-drive focusing over side rack/pinion style.The first step: Loosen all the knob locks and use only your eyes (without a loupe) for the initial composition and focusing, then tighten the focus knob locks half way gradually.
The second step: Keep the locks half tightened as it is the only way the focus knobs maintain enough friction. Then use a loupe for fine focus and completely tighten the focus locks after the focus process is finished. Please remember to use one hand to hold the focus knob while the other hand is used to tighten the focus locks, otherwise slight focus shift will occur due to the worm effect of the screw-focus feature.
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