Another approach would be to use a slider to move the camera from L to R, then use 2 dark slides with holes cut for L and R. Adjust the interocular distance as appropriate for the scene.
Another approach would be to use a slider to move the camera from L to R, then use 2 dark slides with holes cut for L and R. Adjust the interocular distance as appropriate for the scene.
The other issue could be the viewer... i never saw a viewer for large format negatives... also if you could find one remember that for "normal" stereoscopy 6-7 cm lens camera separation is needed, if more distance is used hyper stereoscopy or a sense of bigger than normal distance between objects is obtained and difficult viewing! bigger images could mean larger than normal interpupilary distance...
i would advise a normal or normal wide focal lenght (55 to 85 mm) and a 6x12 back on your 4x5, a double lens lensboard that can hold the lens at 7 cm or near distance between the center of the lenses and a separation between the lens chambers. You could then make contacts out of the pairs and change their order to get stereo images and use a regular stereo viewer!
Or buy a russian sputnik camera and have fun taking pictures!
Cheers!
There's a "Stereo" 6x17 camera on Ebay at way to high a price for what it is but the idea is brilliant. I could modify my 6x17 Gaoersi for far less but bI'd prefer larger negatives though. However I may need to look at what I'd actually get with 7x5 or the 6x17 particularly as I'd be shooting landscapes.
Ian
I haven't read everything so please excuse me it this is redundant.
Is it necessary to modify the camera?
My thought is to use the camera's movements to achieve the 3D effect:
I would try try using front and rear shift, and perhaps swings too, to separate the images.
Drew Bedo
www.quietlightphoto.com
http://www.artsyhome.com/author/drew-bedo
There are only three types of mounting flanges; too big, too small and wrong thread!
I guess that would work but would be awkward and hard to control with many cameras. I have a 7x5 Seneca City View which would be easy too use like that as the trackbed is split and slides left or right to give a lot of front shift, essentially an extension rail that can shift. I assume you're thinking of two sheets of film.
Even easier would be make a sliding bit to fit between the tripod and camera to shift the camera left/right between exposures. Rolleiflex made a Stereo slde bar for their TLR cameras.
Ian
THANK YOU ALL for your input and ideas. Sounds like a real project, but I will at least get started! Thanks again.
Look at 7x11 No 2 Eastman I think the sliding front lens board was for 2 images using GG dividers.
http://www.largeformatphotography.in...=1#post1133364
Tin Can
Not LF I know but I have a Kodak MF(?) camera here at the moment along with a couple of hundred images taken in Indonesia in the 1920's and have been fascinated at just how much 3d you get. In my observation it seems like the images are at a slightly different exposure as you can see below. I am only guessing this but it seems the ones that are really 3D seem to have stop or so difference. Tony Robinson of "Black Adder" fame did a doco on stereo images in the first world war and they got them to be 3D on a TV without glasses so there must be a way to display them LINK..... https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=i8E6WroDA9I.
I am lucky in that this lot came with a viewer.
Hope this helps and good luck, I will be following keenly
That's a Kodak? looks German to me..but.. cool if it is
I don't think the exposure difference is on purpose - probably one is/ was shutter slower that the other and unadjusted
5x8 Stereo camera
http://www.blackartwoodcraft.com/wet...ld-Camera.aspx
Tin Can
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