Hello? I was interested in knowing if anyone had messed with pushing d100 to 200, 400, or even more? In 4x5, though it really doesn't make a difference, right?
Thank you!
Hello? I was interested in knowing if anyone had messed with pushing d100 to 200, 400, or even more? In 4x5, though it really doesn't make a difference, right?
Thank you!
Film speed is film speed.
It's all cut from the same web on the coating machine regardless of final size.
If you want 400, use Ilford Delta 400.
- Leigh
If you believe you can, or you believe you can't... you're right.
They discontinued 4x5 Delta 400 long ago - before it was reformulated. If you want to stay with Ilford, you would have to go to HP5+.Originally Posted by Leigh
OK. I don't use any Delta films; just remember seeing it in a list of films.
Sorry for the confusion.
- Leigh
If you believe you can, or you believe you can't... you're right.
Thank you for your comment, guys,
But has anyone tried pushing d100 up? If it produces nice results I'd want to give it a try.
Thanks!
What results are you after? Extending development of film increases the contrast range on the negative. People extend development times for film for a couple of reasons, both of which involve increasing contrast. The first is simply to compensate for a low-contrast subject. Full exposure is given and development extended so that the density range on the negative is more contrasty and easier to print with a full range of tones. The other reason is "pushing."
"Pushing," as commonly understood, is over-developing film that has been underexposed (either intentionally as in low-light situations or because the photographer likes the "look" of underexposed and overdeveloped negatives) so that it is easier to print with a full range of tones. Underexposing the film results in lost shadow detail. blacks are featureless and have a "solid," graphic quality. Many like this, many don't.
If you want to try that look, then by all means experiment with it. Keep in mind, however, that lost shadow detail due to underexposure can't be recovered. If you are trying to compensate for low light or a too-slow shutter speed and want that shadow detail, switch to a faster film.
As for Delta 100: I've never tried it, but any film will "push." Just add 20% or so to your development time as a starting point.
Best,
Doremus
Pushing is a myth. The sensitivity of the film is set at manufacturing; pushing can not change it. "Expose for the shadows and develop for the highlights" still holds.
If you shorten your exposure, you decrease the number of photons making their way to your film. If you don't have enough photons to create a latent image in the film's emulsion, there's nothing for the developer to develop no matter how long you leave the film in the developer. So the first thing that happens when you "push" is you fail to capture shadow detail.
If you increase development time to try to compensate (a little) for the lack of exposure, you increase highlight density. The helpful part of this is you spread the remaining tonality from the exposure out across a greater density range. The unhelpful part of this is that the greater density is made from more silver grains, so the grain clumps get larger, resulting in both more Callier Effect and increased graininess. So the second thing that happens is that you degrade the image that you did capture, and in the bargain you made it more difficult to print (or scan).
That said, this applies to any film you choose to push, so it also applies to Delta 100. If you've obtained results you've deemed successful pushing other films, there's no reason you can't get similar results pushing Delta 100. T-grained films are a little more sensitive to both exposure and development, so you might want to experiment a little to find the combination of exposure and development that will give you the effect you want.
Bruce Watson
I've used a few hundred sheets of delta 100 but never "pushed" it. I use Tmax 400 when I need more film speed.
Having said that there might be a developer deemed more "energetic" that could help you obtain a little more film speed above 100 ISO.
I've seen some interesting results from others with particular film+developer combinations.
I've stuck mainly to delta + pyrocat which yelds a standard 100 e.i. in my experience.
hi hadenklein
i have done similar things with other films, but not d100. you might do a test with a few sheets ...
make a "test strip" out of your film in camera by making a base exposure at 3 or 2 stops below box speed
and then block off the lens with a card and make additional exposures ...
do this a few times and then process each sheet a little differently. some say to extend development by 30% each stop
so look at your developer and add 30% more development for 1 sheet, then 60% for another and 90% for the other
or whatever ... and make a contact print or scan them and see what you did, and if you like it or not.
some say tab grain films are grainless, its not hard to get them to behave differently than intended ...
you can over expose doing the same test ... i regularly overexpose tmx/tmy by 3 sometimes 4 stops and process it
to get different results.
good luck with your experiments !
john
Delta 100 and 400 has so-so shadow differentiation even at box speed, which seems unrealistically fast to begin with. So you're really not "pushing" anything. You're just lopping off all your lower zones and then overdeveloping to try to salvage what might be left over of the midtones and highlights. Pushing is really a term related to lab development of color film anyway. Unlike TMax films, which have a steep toe and will render bold graphic blacks with underexposure and overdevelopment, Delta tends to just give you blaah mud down there, due to its especially long toe. Been there, done that.
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