Ok, how about some photos of the nicely restored and painted in it's current state? I'll have to make due with my 8x10 De Vere for the time being. LOriginally Posted by Jac@stafford.net
Ok, how about some photos of the nicely restored and painted in it's current state? I'll have to make due with my 8x10 De Vere for the time being. L
Congrats on the score Randy, a quick question about your Saltzman since it's apart, what's the
measurement of the opening above the cropping blades and the opening
below where the negative carrier would slide into ?
Above neg stage at the light source openning is 12X12" with 4 notches sticking out to hold the lamp box, I don't need them. But i wont cut them off until they get in the way.
The masking blades are below the neg holder and are max opening of 10-3/8 XY.
The rotating carrier is exact 8x10 and rotates!
Included is something that fits right in the carrier slot, but doesn't rotate and has several ridges for glass. The inside dim is 9-3/8x11-1/2.
The top round casting is 20" OD and could be a platform for an extension to 11x14.
Tin Can
Thanks Randy !
It needs 16 ft of 415H chain for the upper loop and 7 feet for the bottom.
The upper old chain was rusty and severely kinked, the bottom is fine, but chain comes in 10 ft rolls so, do the right thing.
Last edited by Tin Can; 29-Aug-2016 at 22:44. Reason: chain correction
Tin Can
None of this is for people without experience working with HEAVY metal. I did this sort of thing all my life.
I now know a lot more about how to move it.
Take it apart.
All bolts are torqued correctly, meaning not insanely tight.
Mine was 3 parts already. Bottom base, top cast iron base and tube with camera. Heads/lenses separate.
I didn't need to do this but I think it would be best to remove the cast iron base and tube as one piece AFTER camera removal from cast iron top table GENTLY tip the whole tube onto a grassy knoll. Uphill for the top, letting the cast iron base stay on table until the top has landed.
The camera itself with the 2 pipes one able person can handle. It removes by 4 bolts and a 3/4" combo wrench. A small set of SAE Hex keys, takes out the lens focus setscrew making the whole camera come right off, maybe 1/16". Maybe not. Have a set.
If the lead weights are are still inside, may as well take them out, which you would need to do later for inspection. On mine that removed 140lbs of shifting weight. A small vise grip and two-7/16 combo wrenches release the 2 chain ends. A 0.125" pin punch or 1/8" nail helps. Then just pull the whole top chain out. 1/2" combo wrench loosens the primary focus rod top clamp, tap it towards the tube middle an inch and now the 4 bolts holding the pulley cap are removed with a 9/16" socket, extension and ratchet.. Then start removing all 20lb weights. Top or bottom. A 8'-2x4 is handy for that with a big hammer.
The sliding carriage is aluminum and weighs very little. Slide it off. It's fragile.
The tube is moveable by one weakling like me at top and a strong guy at bottom. The cast iron tube base is heavy, but not impossible.
Two 8'- 2x4's put in each end make it way easier to move. Good jack stands are handy.
All bolts on this were not over-tightened and most looked untouched. Somebody had removed the camera assembly once before.
Now cleaning partsand waiting for new chain.
Those stupid ads that popped up as I searched for best chain and price, led me to the best of both. Go figure.
Tin Can
That's terrible!
We saw much worse on our 7 house dead end road.That's terrible!
Tin Can
Randy, I'd like to thank you for a laugh. When I saw "Incoming Saltzman" I had a mental image of a giant catapult flinging 8 by 10 Saltzman enlargers at your house...
I think it looks like a rocket launcher right now.
Tin Can
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