Tin Can
It's just the anti halation backing coming out... Some films have them, some don't, if you don't pre-wash long enough or dump and fill enough times with a few pre wash water bath then you're going to get different colors from different films, it's not any of the developers Rodinal or any other, it's the anti halation backing differences between films.
Just a late added note-I did not see anyone using a wash aid such as Edwin 4in1, Heico Permawash, or Orbit bath. Those are the ones I like in order. After fixing, I used to do a rinse of the sheet film basically in and out of water. Next into the wash aid for the time required and into the regular wash. Always clean negs with Tri-X and Tmax, and also Ilford Fp4, Hp5, for my many students and myself.
Hope this is helpful.
Me Too Rod. I've always been a Heico Perma Wash guy. I would not feel comfortable with even an extended straight water wash (not saying that straight water wash won't get it done It's just my personal habits as I was introduced to wash aids by my 1st mentor 30+ years) . I use Perma Wash with film and prints and in particular when rinsing FB prints. Plus it cut WAY down on water usage.
Yes it does... The contrast layer on MG is blue sensitive, so this allows more blue... (Magenta has blue in it, so adding it cuts green, but adds blue...)
X-ray prints contrasty for many users of MG due to blue base...
Early Tmax RF had a built in contrast filter for Kodak VC papers for it's screwy grade 2 3/4(ish) required filter to print normal... (The Kodak rep told me so in person when he came to the pro lab and I asked about it... ;-)
Steve K
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