Development, the next big step in my large format adventure

[afxstudio]

Hello,
I'm quite a new user in the large format world as I've been shooting 4x5" just for less than six months so far, but I love it and this medium is probably going to stick with me until the end of times.
I practiced shooting black and white and I soon moved to transparencies. Now I'm getting addicted to the capabilities of negatives such as Ektar and Portra. So, I'm basically going all in on E6 and C41.
I start by saying I never developed before since I always sent my sheets off to the local lab. The lab isn't that bad but in the long run it's expensive and, more than that, I hate not having full control over my doings.

I have spent several weeks now getting all caught up on development, methods and timings, tanks, reels, accessories and whatnot. When I believe I have a solid plan to execute, I read something that gives me more doubts and eventually I get myself unable to purchase anything. Now, it somehow came down to the choice between the SP-445 tank and the Jobo 2520 with the 2509n reel, but if you have a different input feel free to discuss my choice. I read good things about the SP-445 but also not so nice things such as leaks. Processing 4 sheets at a time is enough for me. It seems to be the easiest one to use. On the other hand, the Jobo seems to have better reviews, uses less chemistry (I would like to waste as little as possible) and seems to be more future-proof. But then here comes the technique, something I have zero clue about. Inversion vs rolling? What's the difference when it comes to processing E6 and C41? I read that rolling negatively affects the development with C41, not sure what to believe anymore.
Another critical aspect would be temperature control. Without beating too much around the bush, I'd operate manually whatever tank I get, filling the bathroom sink or a big tray with hot water and maybe using a sous vide machine (those used in kitchen). How could I invert the SP445 in such conditions? And if I purchase the Jobo instead, I could build myself a rotary base with some wheels but then the tank would float in the sink... Sorry if I sound idiotic ad this point, I'm just utterly lost.

Before questioning the chemicals (what kit or single items) I need to figure out the hardware, since I don't want to screw up with sheets and waste time and money.

Thanks for whatever input you would like to give to me.

Massimo

[Fred L]

I haven't used the SP-445 but have the Jobo reels and I'd suggest the latter, if you don't mind rolling. If you have the $$, I'd suggest the Jobo 3010 or 3006 Expert tanks and a roller base ( Simma or Beseler etc..)

[Jac@stafford.net]

Perhaps you could be as lucky as I have been to find some Unicolor agitators and drums. Quite economical and entirely effective. There are others under different brand names such as Chromega and Beseler.

[jamesaz]

I've used many methods. They each have their advocates and detractors. I currently use the sp445 because I don't need to do volume and because the lights can be on. I've read where others have problems with these tanks but I've not experienced any. I don't put photo flo or stabilizer in the tank and give it a good soaking after use followed by air dry. I remove the o ring when not in use to keep it round and lube it occasionally with a small amount of petroleum jelly just because it's an o ring. Good luck.

[afxstudio]

Thanks everyone.
I think I'm going with the Jobo 3010 expert if I manage to find it used in good conditions for cheap. Otherwise I go with the 2520.
One question about rolling: can the tank be submerged? I mean, could water get into the lid? Or I need to be careful and roll it in the bath without going "too deep" in the sink?

[Fred L]

I suppose if you plugged the cog lid with a cork or rubber stopper, you could let it bob and roll without worrying about liquid intrusion.

[Huub]

Thanks everyone.
I think I'm going with the Jobo 3010 expert if I manage to find it used in good conditions for cheap. Otherwise I go with the 2520.
One question about rolling: can the tank be submerged? I mean, could water get into the lid? Or I need to be careful and roll it in the bath without going "too deep" in the sink?

Don't worry too much about it: they were made to be used in the water bath of a jobo processer. They will float in a sink filled with water and it will take quite a lot of force for actually submerge a tank and keep it under water.

[Bernice Loui]

Suggest the Jobo Expert drums. Having tried various developing methods over the decades from trays to hangers and more, the Job Expert drums appear to be the best overall trade off for volume of chemistry used-needed, temperature control, film development uniformity, durability, reliability of developing modest numbers of sheet film.


Bernice

Thanks everyone.
I think I'm going with the Jobo 3010 expert if I manage to find it used in good conditions for cheap. Otherwise I go with the 2520.
One question about rolling: can the tank be submerged? I mean, could water get into the lid? Or I need to be careful and roll it in the bath without going "too deep" in the sink?

[esearing]

using the sp445 tank - For the few seconds you need to invert the tank the temperature should not change dramatically. Drain and fill times should be known if development times are short. 30 seconds drain+fill is a long time for a 6 minute process (8%).

[Pere Casals]

Inversion vs rolling? What's the difference when it comes to processing E6 and C41?

Massimo, for developing color you need a Jobo CPE2 rotary or similar. It's not practical doing it in tanks.

For color you normally use an small ammount of chem, so a rotary is not only the most practical solution but also the good one.

See datasheet: https://www.freestylephoto.biz/pdf/p...structions.pdf

With 1L you make 12 rolls or (12 8x10 sheet, or 48 4x5 sheets) so you need to process a roll or four 4x5 sheet with 83ml of chem.

With color I prefer one shot, also after color chem is mixed it has a not long shelf live.

What I do is mixing only the chem I'm to use, so I open concentrate bottles, I mix what I want, I spray some preserving gas inside (Tetenal Protectan) and I close the concentrate bottles, this is not as good as having unopenned bottles but it's close. Another solution is accumulating exposed film in -20ºC until you have enough to spend 2,5L or 1L.

For what's BW I'd go to trays for the moment. Just place the sheets in a tray (emulsion up) or inside paper safe for daylight processing. After development you close light, move sheet to stop bath and after 15s you can open lights, you also fix with lights open. When development stopped light is not harmful anymore. Then in the future you'll decide what tank/processing you want for BW, trays are one of the best ways to develop sheets in small batches, because simplicity it's also a way to start, and then it's also cheap gear. You can also place a paper tray inside a light tight plastic box, or you can do it in the darkness (for development only, you open lights when sheet is in the stop!!).

Sterilization trays to separate 4 4x5 sheets in 8x10 tray:


Sterilization light tight containers: Search ebay: 6" Stainless Steel Medical Sterilization Tray Rectangular Box Dentist Tool ($6), but test it's light tight, place a film end inside, throw direct sun light to the box, then develop the test strip.

A Light tight plastic box to place the tray inside:


A used paper safe to develop inside:


Sticks/HotGlue to separate sheets, the tray goes inside the plastic box.


So IMHO for color we require the sofistification of a CPE2, for BW we can do it even with kitchen pottery with perfect results.