parallax is what you will be fighting
now...unless you just picked a subject/film plane distance you liked and built the camera just for that.
4x5 would be pretty easy..
8x10 is another matter just because of the size
note: I own a Cambo TWR twin lens 4x5 with parallax correction and cams for different lenses and yes..it's a joy in the studio
Start with two B&J cameras.
Build a frame to hold them with the upper one inverted.
Limk them via a joint or shred lens board.
Does not address parallax adjustment like the Gowlands, but it is a start. Saves you all the fun of building vuew cameras fright off and lets you become aquainted with the design issues involved.
When you are done with this preliminary project, you can sell the cameras for additional development funding.
Drew Bedo
www.quietlightphoto.com
http://www.artsyhome.com/author/drew-bedo
There are only three types of mounting flanges; too big, too small and wrong thread!
Definitely gain an appreciation for MF TLRs before proceeding. You can get an Yashica with a CLA for $100-300 or a Rolleiflex automat for nor much more, and sell it a few months later if it's not for you. I use a Rolleiflex automat more than a DSLR or LF camera and can't help evangelizing for it a little bit.
Linhof Twin-lens 4x5 camera
Cambo TWR 54
通过我的 SCH-I959 上的 Tapatalk发言
Sometimes love just ain't enough.
http://www.flickr.com/photos/pierre506/sets/
Big enough? a coffeeshop as TLR or is it a TLR used as a coffeeshop....
or one that fits in your studio:
http://www.galerie-photo.com/kiel-jo...ns-reflex.html
I also was going to mention parallax, but others have posted, too... But here's the rub... Not only is the framing off, but with a big camera, everything is shot with a different viewpoint... Say you are trying to shoot a headshot up close... Say that the distance between the two lenses is 6 or so inches... That means that at an eye level angle, your angle will be 6" lower all the time, so now the lens will be aiming up the sitter's nose and shooting upward...
I think a camera like this would take a lot of getting used to... It will be a large beast, heavy, balky, bulky, clumsy, image always reversed in finder, fairly slow to operate, and limited movements for a big camera... And if someone made one for their own use, the shakedown period would take a long time (with many frustrations)... Probably end up not shooting with it much...
Maybe a more doable project would be to build a large camera version of one of those DeMornay/Budd waist level finders they used to clip on the top of Leicas in the 30's/40's, with a GG, reflex mirror, and viewing lens... It could mount closer to the lens, as it wouldn't have to be full size as your camera format, could pivot a little for some form of parallax correction, if a small one you could use smaller format focusing mount (interchangable???) lenses that (about) match the angle of your main lens, so not the same as a TLR, but at least you can have a finder that you can check the subject's face while shooting, while you have done the focusing/framing beforehand and set the finder to (about) match the shot on your GG... Maybe getting an old Leitz Visoflex or Kilfitt reflex finder and an old lens, and the matching focusing magnifier for it as an viewing aid???
Muse, muse, muse...
Steve K
First of all, the Linhof shown is not an SLR. It was a police camera that took booking photos. A full length, a profile and a head shot.
If you want to make a 45 TLR you could buy 2 old Linhof monorail cameras from the B or later, except for the ones with a telescoping rail or a fixed bellows.
Take one and unscrew the caps on top of the 4 posts, 2 for the back standard and 2 for the front. Buy 2 sets of the Linhof standard extenders and attach one to each of the 4 posts, they just screw in. Take the bellows off the second camera, it just unsnapped. Unscrew the caps on top of each post. Loosen the rise control on each side of the front and rear standards. Lift the back standard off the rear posts and slide it on to the extended posts on the first camera. Repeat with the front standard. Screw one set of rail caps on to each post. Reattach the bellows and now you have a 45 TLR. You can do this much faster then reading this.
Just make sure that your lenses are matched so when you are in focus on the gg of the top body you are actually in focus on the film in the bottom body. That means that the lenses have to have the same focal length and the same flange focal length distances.
The Sinar Norma also was able to do this the same way but while the Linhof post extensions are still made you would have quite a job finding 4 of them for the Norma.
Not really, if done as I posted with the Linhof Kardans. Both bodies would have rise/fall capability on the front and back bodies so it would not be difficult to have them seeing the same object from essentially the same viewpoint.Originally Posted by LabRat
This sounds eminently sensible. I consistently underestimate how hard it is to make good tools. Concept is easy, execution, hard. Very hard. The difference between my cobbled together 8x10 and the Sinar P is Astronomical.
Both were fun, thanks!Big enough? a coffeeshop as TLR or is it a TLR used as a coffeeshop....
or one that fits in your studio:
http://www.galerie-photo.com/kiel-jo...ns-reflex.html
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