Infos about 8x10 in. Carestream x-ray film

[Mos]

Hi everybody,

My name is Gerardo, I'm a young photographer from Italy. I'm new here, I hope I'm not making any mistakes.
I've always been into Medium Format but, few days ago, I bought a nice 9x12 plate camera from the '20, an ICA Trona 210 with a 13.5cm Carl Zeiss Tessar in compur shutter. I'd like to run some tests but, where I live, I can't really find 9x12 film but Fomapan 100. I read, in this very forum, the possibility to use X-ray medical film. Most of you, as I understand, are using this option to reduce the costs in ULF photography. I'm intended to do the opposite so I'd like to ask some questions:

Here is the film i found from a local store, identical to this one, but even cheaper:
https://www.zzmedical.com/8x10-in-ca...-ray-film.html

The questions are:

1) I have to cut the film, but how should I do that? The film is orthochromatic so I think I should work under a red safelight, am i right? Any precautions?
2) Is the above-mentioned film sensitive only on one side?
3) Any idea about the ISO sensitivity?
4) What is the difference between CSG Green, CSB Full Speed Blue and CSHB – Half Speed Blue ? Any suggestions about the best option to chose ?
5) I use, to develop my medium format film, only a self-made ABCPyro combined with an Alkaline Fixer. Is this a good option to develop the Kodak Carestream or not? Any indications about times?
6) Because the film is orthochromatic can I develop it in trays under the red safelight or should I use, for example, tubes?

That's all, thanks in advance to anyone is going to answer and sorry for my poor english!


Best Regards;

Gerardo

[Alan9940]

There is a long, long discussion of x-ray here:

http://www.largeformatphotography.in...xample-images/

Lots of technical information which I think will answer most of your questions.

[Neil Purling]

Glass plates were probably thicker than film and you may need to insert something else in the plate holders in order the sheet film is kept totally flat.
I believe that the correct safe-light for X-ray film is a ruby-red colour, not like that used with prints. X ray film is usually double-sided unless it says otherwise on the box.
The X ray film can be cut down from larger sheets in a darkroom with a rotary trimmer. You can do this in absolute darkness if you have first practiced with some artists card beforehand, so you get perfectly even sheets of the correct size.

I think that you should tell us about how you intend developing the film. As the Foma is panchromatic you would have to develope that in total darkness if using trays or use a daylight tank. That tank would still need to be loaded in total darkness, you can use a dark-bag.
You have developed B&W film before? Shoot the Foma & when you have confidence in your technique you can consider graduating to X ray film.

[Sean Mac]

Hi,

get things good with the Fomapan first I think.

Green carestream is the place to start. Sensitive on both sides.

http://sergeirodionov.com/x-ray-film-photography/ ...worth checking out

Ask questions on the "Big Thread". You will get help there.

Your english is fine.

Welcome to the forum

[Mos]

There is a long, long discussion of x-ray here:

http://www.largeformatphotography.in...xample-images/

Lots of technical information which I think will answer most of your questions.

Thank you, Alan!

[Mos]

Glass plates were probably thicker than film and you may need to insert something else in the plate holders in order the sheet film is kept totally flat.
I believe that the correct safe-light for X-ray film is a ruby-red colour, not like that used with prints. X ray film is usually double-sided unless it says otherwise on the box.
The X ray film can be cut down from larger sheets in a darkroom with a rotary trimmer. You can do this in absolute darkness if you have first practiced with some artists card beforehand, so you get perfectly even sheets of the correct size.

I think that you should tell us about how you intend developing the film. As the Foma is panchromatic you would have to develope that in total darkness if using trays or use a daylight tank. That tank would still need to be loaded in total darkness, you can use a dark-bag.
You have developed B&W film before? Shoot the Foma & when you have confidence in your technique you can consider graduating to X ray film.

Thank you for your answer, Neil!

So, I know about the thickness of the glass plate holder but they were provided with a kind of internal adapter for sheet film!

I always thought that the usual darkroom red safe light was ok also for handling the film, not only for prints. Thank you for this precious advice! Can you give me more information about this safe-light?


Despite my young age ( I am 20 years old) I've already developed lots of film, mostly 120mm with self made ABC Pyro as I said in my first message. I know that Foma is panchromatic, and I would have never developed it under any kind of light but, because I do not have a tank for 9x12, I thought that I could develop X-Ray orthochromatic film under a proper safe light in trays, for simplicity and to achieve a better control of the process.
Eventually I understand from the link posted by Sean Mac that this procedure is actually possible even if someone prefer to operate in complete darkness.

Anyway I think it's better to get some practice in developing Foma first.


Thank a lot again,
Have a nice day


Gerardo

[Mos]

Hi,

get things good with the Fomapan first I think.

Green carestream is the place to start. Sensitive on both sides.

http://sergeirodionov.com/x-ray-film-photography/ ...worth checking out

Ask questions on the "Big Thread". You will get help there.

Your english is fine.

Welcome to the forum

Hi Sean,

Thank you very much, thanks to your link I get most of the answer I was looking for!

I will surly post any other question in the Big thread.

You too have a nice day,

Bye
Gerardo

[Tim Meisburger]

Yes, you can develop by inspection under a safelight, and cut the film under a safelight.

[Mos]

Yes, you can develop by inspection under a safelight, and cut the film under a safelight.

Hi Tim,

Thank you for your answer! Do you know something about the proper red-light mentioned by Neil? I only know the usual inactinic lights: the red one and the yellow-green (this last one obviously not usable for orthochromatic film! )

[John Kasaian]

For an ortho safelight I use a short string of red led Christmas lights I bought on sale. It gives the place a festive atmosphere.