Help with troubleshooting C41 development issue

[Pali K]

I have noticed that on some of my images, I get very significant edge bleeding only on the C41 process. I have a JOBO CPP2 processor and have had flawless results with B&W and E6 but I seem to consistently get edge bleeding around the dens parts of a color negative. I have had this with Tetenal C41 and now similar issue with Unicolor C41 powder kit. I switched to Unicolor as an attempt to rule out Tetenal C41 as my issue.

The process I followed with the example image below was:
- Bring the processor to 100.4 F (38C) and let it stabilize for 15 minutes. I always measure with an accurate thermometer in addition to processor display to confirm.
- Loaded the film on a reel and let the tank pre-warm (without any water in tank) for 5 minutes per the instructions.
- Per the instructions, I developed for 3 minutes and 15 seconds. I stop the rotation around 6 seconds left on the timer and empty the tank.
- B&W Stop for 1 min - I did this after researching that this is a good step to correct this issue and though it has helped, the issue still remains.
- BLIX for 12 minutes
- Wash for 5 minutes with clean water every minute
- Stab for 1 minute

Here is a frame from the 120 roll that shows the issue that I am trying to resolve.



I would greatly appreciate any tips or help I can get to try to get past this.

Thanks!

Pali

[Gary Beasley]

What I see is a pretty common thing, the exposure bleeding under the edge of the camera frame. Is there any indication of this anywhere besides the edge of the frame? If not it shouldn't be a problem making prints.

[Pali K]

Thaks Gary but I do believe this is something else. The reason why I say that is because my lab developed rolls from same cameras never have this issue. Another area to note is where the camera has imprinted the exposure information (near frame #8 marking at the bottom) is smudged/muddy.

[Wayne]

I've only used Unicolor myself but I've heard others say its the exact same kit as Tetanal, just a different name.

[Duolab123]

I'm guessing this is a fuji auto focus 645?? Neat little camera. I had one , the only thing I would venture is you may have a problem with the pressure plate not keeping the the film flat. I would check to make sure the pressure plate is set right,. Like most Fujis I believe it's adjustable for 120/220.
It looks like light creeping around if the film isn't tight against the camera. This might explain the blurred led exposed imprint if the film wasn't smack up against the leds.
I have used the powdered mixes, I think mine said Jobo on the package, I think these all come from the same place. I have used with my Jobo CPP2 and Duolab with no issues. I wouldn't suspect chemistry doing this. My humble opinion. Best Regards Mike

[Pali K]

Thank you Wayne and Mike. This is indeed from a fuji 645 camera and the pressure plate was set correctly. My challenge is that I get this from my Mamiya RB67 and 4x5 negatives just the same. I am going to replace the bottles I use to store the chemicals next and see if that helps.

Could this be a result of using too much chemisty? I use 500ml but the tank only calls for half of that.

Strange part is that I get this with C41 only regardless of the camera used.

[Pali K]

Could this be due to using tap water?

[Duolab123]

Thank you Wayne and Mike. This is indeed from a fuji 645 camera and the pressure plate was set correctly. My challenge is that I get this from my Mamiya RB67 and 4x5 negatives just the same. I am going to replace the bottles I use to store the chemicals next and see if that helps.

Could this be a result of using too much chemisty? I use 500ml but the tank only calls for half of that.

Strange part is that I get this with C41 only regardless of the camera used.

Yes, this is odd. I'm going to look at some of my negs a bit closer, I don't really like the powder kits, seems to good to be true. I always bought 5 liter Kodak kits in the good old days for C-41 & E-6. I just bought some "real" Kodak Flexicolor C-41 chemicals from Unique photo in NJ, this would be a good test as I still have a batch of the powder as well. The comment about water is a good idea. I installed a 5 stage RO water system, I use this for all chemicals. The Kodak C-41 uses separate bleach and fixer which the experts say is important.
Unique is one of a very few places that will break up cases of Kodak chemistry. Everything is a liquid and can be divided with care, I replenish. I make up 600 mL at a time and about the same amount of replenisher, after each session I top off my 600 mL batch and I'm good to go.
Check APUG a regular contributer is Photo Engineer he is an ex Kodak Rochester genius, he's written a lot about the Blix vs bleach and fixer. He states that to this day Neither Kodak or Fuji will use Blix on film for quality reasons. I'm not a expert but I have always used Kodak color chemistry, I bought the powdered stuff on a trial basis, I think I will stick with The Kodak or similar from here on.
I'll be interested to know what you find going forward.
This is the fun part of analog. Best Regards Mike

[rich caramadre]

Looking at the example I don't think it has to do with the processing. It's only happening in the sky and not the building. I would say the sky was bright and has alot of exposer. Probably creeping around the pressure plate. I worked at a lab for a number of years and would see this even on 35mm film that was over exposed. Just my thoughts.