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Thread: Out of Date E6 Exposure & Developing

  1. #1

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    Out of Date E6 Exposure & Developing

    I've got some OoD Ektachrome, some going back as far as 1990 and some 2004, all kept in fridge or freezer. Now I realise this will be a test and try process and there could be some fogging but what should I do to compensate for the OoD to get the best results. Do I increase exposure, increase developing solution strength, or increase developing time, or a combination of these?
    I'm gearing up to use some of the film on my baby grand daughter, is there anything I should be aware of when using the OoD film.
    I will most likely use rotary development, and some tray development.

    Regards

  2. #2
    adelorenzo's Avatar
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    Re: Out of Date E6 Exposure & Developing

    I've been shooting Fuji from the 2000's at box speed with good results. I added time to the first developer to compensate and that seemed to do the trick. Sorry I can't remember my times it was maybe 20-25% more in the first dev. This is rotary (Jobo) using Tetenal E-6 kits.

  3. #3

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    Re: Out of Date E6 Exposure & Developing

    Quote Originally Posted by adelorenzo View Post
    I've been shooting Fuji from the 2000's at box speed with good results. I added time to the first developer to compensate and that seemed to do the trick. Sorry I can't remember my times it was maybe 20-25% more in the first dev. This is rotary (Jobo) using Tetenal E-6 kits.
    Thanks, that is helpful because I am using the Tetenal kit and Jobo rotary, I'll try different combinations as you suggest and see if I can get a decent result.

  4. #4
    A.K.A Lucky Bloke ;-)
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    Re: Out of Date E6 Exposure & Developing

    Why don't you test the film with a color target first? If you notice some fogging then double the exposure (half ISO) and cut 2 mins from first developer at 38C (pull one stop). Make sure to adjust for room temp if needed.

  5. #5
    Pali K Pali K's Avatar
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    Re: Out of Date E6 Exposure & Developing

    Both of the images below were shot on Provia 100 expired in 2002 that was stored in a freezer. I shot and processed in normally using JOBO CPP2 with Tetenal E6 kit. The development was 6:15 and BLIX was 8.

    https://www.flickr.com/photos/palika...etaken-public/
    https://www.flickr.com/photos/palika...etaken-public/

    These are calibrated drum scans so what you see is what is on the slide.

    Hope this helps.

  6. #6

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    Re: Out of Date E6 Exposure & Developing

    This was taken with -93 expired EPP. I shot it at box speed, erring on the side of overexposure and developed it normally in Tetenal E6.

    https://flic.kr/p/FEs5oT

    Sent from my Nexus 6P using Tapatalk

  7. #7

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    Re: Out of Date E6 Exposure & Developing

    I've shot 1998 ProviaF in 120 size at box with no adjustment to speed or dev required.

  8. #8

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    Re: Out of Date E6 Exposure & Developing

    Today I processed two sheets of the OoD Ektachrome 64, with my eye they seem ok. They are attached below. The darker one was one stop quicker than the lighter one, processed as per packet instructions. Other than resizing there is not post editing at all just a straight scan.

    Click image for larger version. 

Name:	Ektachrome 64 1988 Test resize 2.jpg 
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Size:	62.4 KB 
ID:	149697

    Click image for larger version. 

Name:	Ektachrome 64 1988 Test resize.jpg 
Views:	14 
Size:	47.9 KB 
ID:	149698

    These were taken with as much colour as I could get using my wife's flowers from around the house to test the film capabilities.

    On the instructions with the film there is a recommendation to use a 80B filter shooting with a photolamp which I take to mean a flash, and a 80A filter with tungsten lighting. Is this necessary or just a recommendation? Obviously if I'm taking photos of the grand daughter indoors I'll be using a strobe or led panel, would that require a filter??

  9. #9

    Re: Out of Date E6

    Quote Originally Posted by Colin D View Post
    ...there is a recommendation to use a 80B filter shooting with a photolamp which I take to mean a flash....
    "Photolamp" is 3400K continuous light. Flashes/strobes are 5500K. If you're photographing your granddaughter with a flash, you won't need to filter it.

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