Fujinon 250mm or 300mm for portraits on 8x10? Fujinon vs Rodenstock?

[ryanmills]

I know Jock Sturges used the W 6.7 250 for a while before he switched so I know thats a usable lens for 8x10 however im not sure how much he had to stop down. And I searched for a while but I cant find anyone using the the Fujinon W 300mm F/5.6 300mm for portraits. Wondering if there is a reason?

Any portrait shooters use a "Fujinon w 250mm f/6.7" or a "CM Fujinon W 300mm F/5.6" for portraits? I have a 240mm rodenstock apo-n right now but its coverage wide open is much poorer than I would have expected at full both length distances. Wondering if the coverage wide open is good enough for full body shots without stopping down. I really would prefer the 240mm rodenstock apo-s but finding one at a good price has been a little hard. As far as contrast and sharpness does anyone have any thoughts on how close those two Fujinon lens compare to the "rodenstock apo-s" I know the "S" is suppose to be better in every regard except coverage but given the $1000+ price difference i wonder if its really worth it to wait till I can find one. In the end I'm looking for a modern multicoated lens I can get modern shutters for. I shoot in full sun a lot and I travel a lot. I need a shutter thats solid and not relying on a CLA every 100 sheets. Lastly the impossible to judge contrast, the contrast on my 135mm APO-S for 4x5 was magical in any light. The APO-N however is just not even close, it does ok in sun but in the shade its really flat.

With all that said the Fujinon seem like the best choices but if portrait shooters have other choices in that 240mm to 300mm range im open to suggestions. I only say portrait shooters because i find contrast and sharpness landscape shooters prefer is different from portraits.

[Maris Rusis]

I've used a variety of 300mm lenses for portraiture, Fujinon-W, Schneider Symmar, Schneider Symmar-S, Commercial Congo, Commercial Ektar, and I'd say that for contact work they are all equivalent, indistinguishable, and interchangeable. In other words they have no obtrusive optical signature like Heliars, Veritos, Imagons, etc.

Here is a portrait taken with a Fujinon-W:

Nuclear Physicist, Retired

Gelatin-silver photograph on Ilford VC FB photographic paper, image size 24.5cm X 19.6cm, from a 8x10 Kodak Tmax 400 negative exposed in a Tachihara 810HD triple extension field view camera fitted with a Fujinon-w 300mm f5.6 lens. Signed, titled, and stamped verso.

[ic-racer]

I use my 300mm Fujinon for portraits almost exclusively on 8x10. It works for me and I hope no one else is taking the same type of portraits.

[Ari]

I used to use a Fuji 250 for portraits on 8x10, now I use a 300mm.
But I can't stay away from the 250mm FL on 8x10, I really like it, almost as much as I like 300mm, so I've bought another lens in that FL range, a 9½" Velostigmat.
Below is a shot using the 250 f6.7.

[Sal Santamaura]

...Below is a shot using the 250 f6.7...

The left one only? Or both?

[Ari]

Yes, both; I usually present these two shots together.

[ryanmills]

I used to use a Fuji 250 for portraits on 8x10, now I use a 300mm.
But I can't stay away from the 250mm FL on 8x10, I really like it, almost as much as I like 300mm, so I've bought another lens in that FL range, a 9½" Velostigmat.
Below is a shot using the 250 f6.7.

Thanks, Is that left shot wide open, seems it still has a fairly heavy vignette. Not sure if thats from post or not. The hardest part is the low light indoor shooting a do a lot. I just cant get into a f/16 range without a really slow shutter speed.