Here's my solution to the Freestyle/Tetenal dilemma. Unique Photo in NJ sells REAL Kodak C-41 chemistry in less than case quantities 5L at a time. But ONLY the Rapid Access C-41 (This is what every minilab uses now) Unlike B&H you don't have to buy a lifetime supply and buy at the store. This is the same stuff that comes in the cartridges that Fuji, Kodak and others sell but this is for machines that don't use the dopey cartridges. You can check your local shop may have the stuff but most use the cartridges.
I just developed 2 rolls of 35 mm 1 Fuji, and 1 Kodak Portra. I am using the Kodak Flexicolor C-41 RA (Rapid Access) chemistry. This stuff is designed for minilabs but looks to work fine for small tanks. I processed on a Jobo CPP2, with a lift, in the short 2500 series tank. At 100F 3min 15 sec. developer, (This is common to every C-41 process ).
There are options for times on Bleach and fixer. If you have the fastest minilab Bleach is 1 min! Fixer is two separate baths of 1 min each.
Having said this Kodak Z-100 manual basically says you can Bleach up to 6 1/2 minutes if that's what your old minilab is set up to do, and Fix up to 6 1/2 minutes (Look at the Z-100 manual)
Here's what I did. 2500 series short (2x35mm) reel tank I used 450mL of solution This was probably overkill but I didn't wan't to run out of activity.
Develop 3'15"
Bleach 3'30"
Rinse 2X 30"
Fixer 5'30"
Wash 10 x 30"
Final Rinse 30" off the machine.
These chemicals are readily available from Unique photo in NJ. They shipped UPS, nothing froze but I had them delivered to my work. UPS truck sat out in a unheated garage overnight stuff was cold but fine. You need Developer starter (Cheap) and Bleach Starter (Cheap) AND you will need to replenish your chemistry. I suppose you could use it 1 shot but no reason to. Kodak says RA designed for washless process but is AOK to wash, (Good because I like to wash)
The developer is standard C-41 LU cat 823 1672 5 L Replenisher, this is where you need the Dev. starter (cat. 660 1074) to make up working solution, Bleach is the RA stuff cat 825 5549, bleach starter (660 1082) is required to make up the working solution. Fixer is RA stuff cat 107 7577, no starter required. Final Rinse is just plain Flexicolor SM (small tank) cat 192 5254.
Next time I'm going to try shortening my bleach times and using two separate fixer solutions it will be a little trickier, need to use final fix to replenish first fix and add fresh fix to final fix, (look at the Z-100 manual, counter current baths it makes sense)
The negatives look great (No I have not printed yet) I'm done with the "Hobby" kits . I get Fuji RA-4 print chemicals from my local lab. The Kodak C-41 stuff is from Unique, but I think I can get this from my local guy as he uses a Noritsu processor (no cartridges). No reason to use "Blix" kits this is how it is intended to be used.
As far as E-6, I'm trying to swear it off, I'm done with E-6 LF, but I can't break myself from shooting 2 1/4 chromes and showing them with my Kindermann projector (fall shots so Great!) If I relapse into a lot of chromes I'm going with the Fuji Pro 6, 5 L from Freestyle (It can be replenished too). For what the film costs I can afford the chemistry. I still have a little Tetenal E-6 left when its gone, I'm done with the "Blix" film processes. It stinks that Tetenal is not going to be available, I think this is Freestyle trying to push Arista. But it is what it is. Europe seems to have A LOT more options than USA, more competition less "superstores"
I will try to scan and post a couple shots in the next few days.
Very Interested in comments. Let me know what you think.
Best Regards, Mike
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Originally Posted by Corran
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