Studio Portraits with Large Format

[Peter De Smidt]

As was mentioned in another thread recently, studio portraiture with LF can be quite challenging, especially if the photographer doesn't have any assistance. I hope this thread will be a good place to talk about helpful techniques for being successful at LF studio portraiture.

I've recently done a little studio portraiture with an 8x10. For me, the biggest challenge was seeing the entire picture. It's so easy for something like a reflector to inch it's way into the picture without being noticeable from behind the camera. While this may not be a problem with super-bright screens and reflex viewers, it can be with older cameras, lenses that need to be stopped down to working aperture..... One thing that help is a whole page magnifier, a Fresnel. I set mine under the bellows of my Century so that it's easy to get to. For composing, I pull it out and place it up on the ground glass. Tilting it a bit can really lighten up specific edges. Once the composition is set, I put the magnifier away and grab a loupe.

One other thing I've learned is that I have to take my dark cloth system seriously. Getting rid of extraneous light really helps with viewing the ground glass, and if I'm fighting with the dark cloth, I'm not paying enough attention to the picture. I'm going to have to rig up something that is more secure and block more of the light.

The best thing, though, would be to have a couple of assistants. One to load the camera with film holders, and one to adjust lights....

How about you? What things have you done that have helped you with LF portraiture?

[BrianShaw]

I work single handed, but I'm not a pro or in a commercial setting. What works best for me is always knowing my equipment and procedures without having to think. Organization and attention to detail has been the key. Consistent process so there are no surprises or questions... like is this film already exposed, do I have film in this holder or not, what film is in the holder...

If I can do it, anyone can.

[DrTang]

I seem to be always lopping feet off

but the hardest part is getting the dang models to hold still between the focusing and the exposure

they just do not get it.. and tend to stay 'kinda still'

oy


they are all used to digital slr workflow

[SergeiR]

In studio - tracking modeling lights are best thing since sliced bread. And then of course metering technique.

But yes, decent ground glass helps A LOT.

[seezee]

I put my modeling lights at full power to see where the light falls, then either switch them off or set them to tracking. I compose & focus with the room lights on, then switch them off. Always check that the trigger hasn't gone to sleep while I was fiddling with the camera set up by manually firing the lights once before I squeeze the shutter bulb.

You're so right about the models keeping still. I'm using a 𝒇/3.0 Petzval lens with razor-thin DOF, so the biggest challenge is trying to get someone to laugh without moving his or her head out of the plane of focus!

[Alan Gales]

The Blackjacket focussing cloths get really dark. I've got one for my 8x10. It is a little fussier and takes a little longer to use than the BTZS that I used to use for 4x5. Everything is a trade off somewhere.

If you are interested there are plenty of videos on Youtube about the Blackjacket.

[Jason Greenberg Motamedi]

Sometimes it feels like cheating, but a single lens reflex camera like a Graflex makes portraits much easier, and "f/3.0 Petzval lens with razor-thin DOF" is no problem.

Of course with a Graflex you are limited to 4x5 or 5x7.

[Peter De Smidt]

I have an 8x10 BlackJacket which I use in the field. It is a good solution, but it's a little small, at least for me. It doesn't fit on my Century 7a, though.

Unfortunately my (Speedotron) modeling lights don't track light output.

[swmcl]

Sorry for the ignorance but what is a tracking modelling light ? Is it a light hanging from a rail on the ceiling ?

[Peter De Smidt]

A tracking modeling light is one that changes brightness when the strobe settings are changed. My 4803 pack has no provision for changing the level of the modeling lights. They're always full on or off, no matter how many watt-seconds will be used during the flash. My 805 packs allow me to manually turn down each modeling light according to the power that the flash will be for that head. Fancier lights do this automatically. The advantage of tracking lights is that you can set them by eye, taking only a reading for the key plus fill. If the modeling lights don't dim in sync with the strobe settings, then you have to take reading of each light, and the image might not look like it does on the back of the camera.