C-41 Separate Bleach and Fixer any kit options?

[Duolab123]

When I used to chat privately with Ron (AKA PE/PhotoEngineer) he basically explained that the combination of the bleach/fix together caused an interference with FULL fixing, so you get MOSTLY fixed images that may last 10 years and then begin to have fogging issues from not being totally and completely fixed out. He said if you absolutely have to use a BLIX, make sure you BLIX it longer than recommended and you have a better chance at a longer archivability.

Furthermore, he emphasized that the stabilizer step was essential in archival steps for COLOR stability. Again, good now, 10 years and you may see fading.

He and others he worked on did lots of testing and BLIX was deemed NOT up to the Kodak quality standards required.

Hope that helps.

~Stone

You are absolutely correct on the stabilizer, the Tetena kit does include a stabilizer as well, I plead temporary senior moment.

[tgtaylor]

Although Kodak C-41 Fix went up in price since I last purchased it, it is still cheap notwithstanding that you have to order in quantities of 2:

http://www.bhphotovideo.com/c/produc...plenisher.html

You may be able to find single qualities at a mini-lab supply house.

Thomas

[Duolab123]

I was looking at the instruction sheet for the Tetenal Kit from Freestyle. Claim is that you can develop up to 16 rolls per liter, you need to extend process times. Developer increases time by 15 seconds every four rolls, 3'15" first 4 rolls, upto 4 minutes for the 13th through 16th rolls. No big deal Right. BLIX times go from 4 minutes for the first 4 rolls to 15 MINUTES for the last 4.

Not very reassuring, I'm going with Ron The Photo Engineer advice. Now I'm going to go and print.

[paulMD]

Couldn't you do a fix step after the blix? Just use regular rapid fix for a short time.

Sorry for the thread necro but does anyone else have any comment on this approach? I cannot seem to find any way to source kits that use separate bleach+fix anymore so this sounds reasonable.

Would you want to use a hypo-clear/fixer-remover after this, or would that damage the negative? I have a forced washer column so it would be feasible to just wash the snot out of it as well.

[RMiksell]

I would think not. You need the bleach to halogenate the silver and fixer to remove the silver halides. Better to buy c41 bleach and fixer. I use https://www.uniquephoto.com/product/...2l%2D600005383 for bleach and their c41 developer and fixer too. Plan on spending $350 on initial stock unless you can split a kit with someone. It last a long time though. I'm still using the bleach I bought 2 years ago with no issues.

[Duolab123]

I would think not. You need the bleach to halogenate the silver and fixer to remove the silver halides. Better to buy c41 bleach and fixer. I use https://www.uniquephoto.com/product/...2l%2D600005383 for bleach and their c41 developer and fixer too. Plan on spending $350 on initial stock unless you can split a kit with someone. It last a long time though. I'm still using the bleach I bought 2 years ago with no issues.

It's been a few months back but I got everything I need for C41 through unique for about 125 bucks. Flexicolor chemistry, you need to get the RA C41 bleach and fixer. These are what is used in minilabs. Bleach is expensive, but if you replenish a 5L bleach will last for literally a couple hundred rolls. Search APUG for this thread it's all there. Unique is unique in letting you buy less than case quantities. Don't but the SM bleach and fixer that only comes special order because no one uses it anymore. LU developer and FINAL RINSE not stabilizer. You will need to wash after fix No hypo clear. You need the bleach and developer starter to make your first batch then you can replenish or use 1 shot in a Jobo.