C-41 Separate Bleach and Fixer any kit options?

[minesix66]

Could someone post the types of chemicals with possibly links. I would like to give it a try myself, but I am having a hard time trying to figure out what chemicals to get, times for processing, and how to mix the chemicals at the right proportions for my 2504 jobo.

[koraks]

Mixing instructions are usually included in the specifications of the chemicals. I'm in Europe so I doubt my sources are very relevant to you, but perhaps some American members can post some clues. C41 is a standardized process so processing parameters are easy to find. Some kits allow for processing at lower temperatures (e.g. the fuji hunt kit) with adjusted (longer) development and bleach time. Fix and stabilize times are non critical.

[tgtaylor]

Here you go - everything you ever wanted to know about processing Kodak C-41:

http://www.kodak.com/global/en/busin...?pq-path=12338

Thomas

[Corran]

I scanned some color images a few weeks ago that I developed about 5 years ago with a C-41 press kit. They look perfect, just like the day I developed them. I've moved on to the Tetenal 5L liquid kit and have developed hundreds of sheets of C-41 and E-6. I haven't found a single problem with these kits or blix in general.

Does anyone have actual credible/scientific proof or evidence that a blix is at all an issue? I've asked this before, and other than vague statements that separate bleach/fix is just "better" somehow, I really don't see it. Perhaps 30 years from now but at that point I'm not really worried about it, but I'd like to see some artificial aging tests or something, to back up those claims.

[Tin Can]

Great info there on gas burst sink line with explanations for why to use N2 AND air for different steps. I will be setting up the Kodak way for my ancient colors films.

Here you go - everything you ever wanted to know about processing Kodak C-41:

http://www.kodak.com/global/en/busin...?pq-path=12338

Thomas

[Michael R]

This article is another excellent reference (the comments by Ron (Photo Engineer) and Rudi should be read as well).

http://www.apug.org/forums/forum216/...ach-fixer.html

[Duolab123]

One thing I've come across ALL the Kodak Cat. No.s have changed since Alaris (UK pension fund) got the business. Feb. 2013

http://www.kodak.com/ek/uploadedFile...Feb2013_FG.pdf

The Z manuals are from 2003, all the info is correct but not the catalog numbers and packaging have changed

Some mini-lab chemistry is available in cartridges (SM). This is the set up Fuji uses in their Frontier machines , Develop, Bleach, Fix 1, Fix 2, Stab 1, Stab 2, Stab 3, Dry No water wash.

If you buy the "Real" chemistry for deep tanks, You use more conventional method Develop, Bleach, Fixer, WASH, Final Rinse.

I've used Tetenal E-6, Dev. wash, Color Dev. wash Blix, wash, Final Rinse with excellent results

I've used the "Press Kits" mine were labeled Jobo from Omega Brandess, tried 3 different times. Mixed results NOT impressed at all.

I think that if you mainly develop medium format/35mm in moderate amounts I would probably try the Tetenal liquid kit (Blix)

If you are doing one shot Jobo processing in expert tanks Kodak makes the SM chemicals available in "Tank" packaging Developer min purchase is concentrates to make 8 x 3L batches of Developer, Bleach and Fixer also available in mammoth quantities, using a Jobo you can skip the stabilizer if you wash, just like the Tetenal and Press kits you use a Final Rinse (color version of Photo Flo)

Kodak still makes LORR, (what ever that means) that can be used with good old deep tanks, gaseous burst etc. Least expensive per sq. foot, normal replenishment, Starters etc.

I have looked at the costs and my usage, I can't justify buying 24 liters of Developer, cost isn't my concern, I just know that I would never use it all.

So I will probably cave and buy the Tetenal 5L (Blix) kit. Or based on my previous behavior will go nuts and buy a bunch of chemicals and do it right!

I've read Ron (Photo Engineer) on APUG he sure sounds like he know what he's talking about. I just don't like doing things Half ***ed.

[StoneNYC]

I scanned some color images a few weeks ago that I developed about 5 years ago with a C-41 press kit. They look perfect, just like the day I developed them. I've moved on to the Tetenal 5L liquid kit and have developed hundreds of sheets of C-41 and E-6. I haven't found a single problem with these kits or blix in general.

Does anyone have actual credible/scientific proof or evidence that a blix is at all an issue? I've asked this before, and other than vague statements that separate bleach/fix is just "better" somehow, I really don't see it. Perhaps 30 years from now but at that point I'm not really worried about it, but I'd like to see some artificial aging tests or something, to back up those claims.

When I used to chat privately with Ron (AKA PE/PhotoEngineer) he basically explained that the combination of the bleach/fix together caused an interference with FULL fixing, so you get MOSTLY fixed images that may last 10 years and then begin to have fogging issues from not being totally and completely fixed out. He said if you absolutely have to use a BLIX, make sure you BLIX it longer than recommended and you have a better chance at a longer archivability.

Furthermore, he emphasized that the stabilizer step was essential in archival steps for COLOR stability. Again, good now, 10 years and you may see fading.

He and others he worked on did lots of testing and BLIX was deemed NOT up to the Kodak quality standards required.

Hope that helps.

~Stone

[Corran]

I do normally blix longer than recommended. Obviously can't do too much, within reason.

If some of my color images fog a little after 10 years I'm not going to be all that upset.

[Peter De Smidt]

Couldn't you do a fix step after the blix? Just use regular rapid fix for a short time.