Thanks Dan, interesting.Originally Posted by Kodachrome25
Agreed entirely, focus lock is the one missing feature of Chamonix. Not an issue for a normal landscape, but the more creative you get with your image the more important focus lock becomes.
Thanks Dan, interesting.
Agreed entirely, focus lock is the one missing feature of Chamonix. Not an issue for a normal landscape, but the more creative you get with your image the more important focus lock becomes.
hi i have used both the F1 and the N2 , i would say i prefer the F1 for the rear asymmetrical tilts ,Love this feature !! but not a Deal breaker the n2 is a tad lighter , because the price is not that much of a difference i would go the F1
I had this issue briefly with my n-2 but not after I tightened the hex screw on the focus spindle.
Even when tightened, which you don't want to do too tight, if you're at a weird angle like facing up to the moon or for star trails, or down toward the ground, and have a heavy lens, there is going to be focus drift. Unless you carry a hex and wrench it down for every shot, but they should just have a built in lock, really is a lacking feature, tightening works for 99% of the shots, it's the extreme angles that Dan is talking about.
This is great insight, guys. Thank you.
I didn't realize there was an issue with focus lock. So, StoneNYC, you're saying it (focus lock) only becomes an issue on extreme angles? Your average landscape shot with movements (say, even extreme tilt) would be no problem? Or could that be an issue.
Thanks again!
I set the tension screw on the focus tighter in the Summer or in warmer locations and looser in the Winter or in colder locations. The only time I do run into drift is when doing macro work straight down. I have thought about how to make a lock on it but have yet to figure it out.
And I always have varying degrees of tools with me depending on manner of carrying the gear and how long from home.
I just ordered a 045N-2 which has no zero-detent on the front tilt. It's a drawback (for me) but the benefits versus other similar cameras simply outweighed that, so I'll learn to live with it, or rig something up to help. If all else fails I can use my monorail. While there might be some way for Chamonix to design a front tilt detent in somehow, you'd still be stuck without a detent on front swing, which would be difficult to remedy given the camera design, which is similar to the Phillips design. Back tilt has a mechanism for locking it at 90 degrees.
Initially I was more interested in the F1 than the N-2 because of the asymmetric rear tilt than the N-2, but in the end I went for the N-2 because I prefer (at least in theory) the redesigned back swing which allowed them to put some guide rails on the bed for the back. Since I don't swing the back all that often, those rails should make it easier to keep the back square up when moving it forward/backward.
The F1 appears to be based on the N-1 with asymmetric rear tilt. What I really wanted, I suppose, is an F2, but since that doesn't currently exist I went with the N-2. I'll make some aids to help me with the lack of detents.
I was always obsessed with detents, but keep in mind detents are only as good as their calibrations and the precision of everything else on the camera. On a camera of this type they can sometimes end up being more trouble than their worth. I've seen quite a few cameras that were less than perfectly squared up when zeroed in their detents. People assume everything is perfect when they are zeroed, but often they'd actually end up with better alignment by eye or feel. It isn't too hard to fabricate some alignment aids, and for zeroing tilts you can also use a simple inclinometer.
Looking forward to receiving my N-2. I never ever thought I'd buy a wooden camera but here we go.
My Phillips doesn't have detents and never missed them.
Thanks,
Kirk
at age 73:
"The woods are lovely, dark and deep,
But I have promises to keep,
And miles to go before I sleep,
And miles to go before I sleep"
Michael, the n-1, n-2, and F1 all have a zero "detent" of sorts by engaging the latches. You can easily feel where zero is while under the cloth though.
Ok, I had to pull mine out because like Vinny said, there's a locking mechanism for zeroing the camera, the only part that doesn't perfectly lock is the rear sway, but it's pretty easy to line up both legs to be flush with the base board and evenly placed.
The focus knob can be adjusted to your level of preferred tightness with a hex screw. But it just doesn't lock, yes normal landscapes is fine, it's like Dan said, when shooting straight down with a heavy lens is really the only issue.
Pictures to come...
Posting Permissions
Reply With Quote
Bookmarks