Need help printing Carestream EB/RA

[Fr. Mark]

The chemicals for the new cyanotype aren't that expensive, it has longer tonal range, it's a single solution that keeps 6-12 months easily, more if you put in a smidgen of dichromate. The 100ml recipe will make probably 40-50 8x10's.

http://www.mikeware.co.uk/downloads/Cyanomicon.pdf Big PDF v complete.

http://www.mikeware.co.uk/mikeware/N...e_Process.html Less detailed, v useful

Dr. Ware has in the past responded to emailed questions. He's done a lot of great service for the photo community.

[koraks]

Yeah, I found that a home mixed new cyanotype sensitizer kept well for over half a year even without dichromate. If you mix up a small batch at a time (I mix something like 50ml or 100ml), you don't have to worry about it going bad. Iregret having added a small amount of dichromate to my latest batch as it has a longer tonal scale without it, which suits my more contrasty negatives. I'd recommend adding any contrast agents only to the sensitizer just prior to coating for that reason.

It took me quite a while to figure out how to consistently get good prints with the new formula, while the classic formula is much easier due to its forgiving nature in terms of paper. On the other hand, the new formula can match just about any negative by using contrast agents; the regular formula is much more limited and requires careful contrast control in the negative (digital negatives are ideal for classic blueprints). The regular formula is also easier to coat evenly; I find that the new formula is more prone to streaking.

I would recommend starting out with the classic formula to get a hang of the basics of alt process printing and then stepping up to the new formula for more control.

[Stephen Thomason]

Fr. Mark and koraks: I just finished developing two identical shots, one in Rodinal 1+100 @ 70 degrees F for 8 minutes, and the other in Pyrocat-HD 1+1+150 at 70 degrees F for 10 minutes.

WOW - what a difference in negative densities while still giving a Zone 0 density to the black background. They look GREAT. I think they will print substantially better than the others. The Pyrocat negative stained very well - it doesn't look as dense to the naked eye as the Rodinal one, but I am still learning the comparative effects of the two developers.

I'll update the thread when I get a chance to print these negatives. I think I am really going to like this film.

[koraks]

The stain will be particularly noticeable with alternative processes as it blocks the actinic light really well. In my negatives I guesstimate that it adds at least a stop more contrast.

[Fr. Mark]

It is possible to over do it with Pyrocat and get excessive exposure times for new cyanotype. Glad to help. I think it's a really great film at a reasonable price. I hope we have it a long time.

[koraks]

My densest negatives so far require exposure of about 3 to 4 minutes at short distance with a face tanning unit, or occasionally up to 6. But they require exposures of up to half an hour or even more for carbon transfer...

[Luis-F-S]

Not to highjack this thread, but I'm trying to expose and develop EB/RA in HC-110. I exposed at 80 EI, and developed in tanks with 2 oz HC-110 to 126 oz of water for 6 minutes at 68 deg. My highlights are very dense, 1.86 density and Zone 1 is non existant resulting with the image being very contrasty. What other developer combo and EI should I use to try and tame the contrast? I'm afraid with the HC-110 I would need to decrease the developing time too much. I would like to produce negatives for silver gelatin printing. Thanks, L

[kludge]

It's been five years... but... I now get the original poster. It sounds like he's using Polycontrast paper or some other bichromatic paper where the enlarger light color affects the contrast. If this is the case, it would seem to me that the easiest solution is just not to use that stuff and use a normal graded enlarging paper. Because yes, a blue-based film (like an x-ray film but even 4147) will change the contrast of the paper. You can add a filter pack to compensate for that but... it's one more thing to deal with in a world where there are already too many variables. Use a #2 paper....

[Jim Noel]

koraks: I am developing for 4 minutes at Rodinal 1+100 with continuous rotation. I rate the Carestream at 25, using electronic flash (White Lightnings at full power close up), and get a nice dense negative. I've shot the same scene at 12, and the image is definitely blocking up, but doesn't look visually much denser, and the background starts to show some texture.

I've seen mention of Rodinal 1+200 for six minutes.

I'll try Rodinal 1+100 for 7 minutes as you do, and Pyrocat-HD 1+1+150 for 10 minutes and report back.

I will also try full yellow (170 on my enlarger) and see what effect that has. My exposure factor charts don't go beyond 90Y - any idea what I need to use as an exposure factor going from 90 to 170 on an Omega Dichro?

When you say you end up with negatives that print at 00 filtration, do you mean printing on standard printing paper or do you use your enlarger for printing the cyanotypes? I've yet to try cyanotypes, but they are on my list.

Fr. Mark: What Pyrocat-HD dilution do you use?

I expose this film at EI 100 with White lightnings, develop in Pyrocat HD and get nice full range negatives. I believe you are overexposing by 2 stops.

[koraks]

@kludge xray film prints fine on VC paper. The blue base may increase contrast a bit, but it's entirely manageable.

@Jim Noel: Ektascan BRA seems to work quite well at around 50-100 in my experience as well. Maybe 100 is a tad on the high side; I preferabout 50-80 for decent shadow detail. YMMV.