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Thread: Kallitype

  1. #1

    Join Date
    Sep 2003
    Posts
    115

    Kallitype

    Hello,

    I'm fond of looking at pt/pd prints.

    I would like to experiment the kallitype process and have decided to purchase a kit. However the chemical included in B&S and Formulary kit are different from each other. I'm banding towards B&S kit as it seems substantially cheaper. Is there any differences in procedure and outcome between the two?

    Any difference between ammonium & potassium dichromate?

    B&S also sells Platinum Toning kit. Is it possible to achieve warm tone with this toning kit? If not, what chemical & quantity is used to make Palladium Toner affordably?

    Off topic:

    I have left-over silver nitrate, potassium dichromate, gelatine-salt solution mixed 30 months ago. Do you know if they are still good? If not, I'll dispose them all. I'm hoping they can keep for a long time.

    Also, slimy clumps has formed in the left-over Fotospeed AU20 gold toner (and algae-looking black spots sticking on the inside glass of the bottle). Still good?

    Many Thanks!

  2. #2

    Join Date
    Jul 2000
    Posts
    471

    Kallitype

    Aaron, I'm assuming you're refering to the developers and not the Potassium Chlorate that is mixed with ferric oxalate as a sensitizing agent in the traditional chemistry for pt/pd. ( there is another alternative chemistry being used and that is refered to as NA2. But that is a hole other post). The developer is Potassium Oxalate. This renders slightly warmer tones than the alternative developer Ammonium Citrate. Both are used with great results. Toning with platinum moves your tones cooler not warmer but someone else may have more experience with it than I. Please be careful with the Pt/Pd process it can be very addicting....lol....have fun with it...

  3. #3

    Join Date
    Sep 2003
    Location
    South Carolina
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    5,506

    Kallitype

    Have a look at my article on kallitype at http://unblinkingeye.com/Articles/Kallitype/kallitype.html. I think it will answer many of your questions.

    Silver nitrate and potassium dichromate solutions, if mixed in distilled water, should be good for several years. Anything mixed in tap water is suspect.
    For discussion and information about carbon transfer please visit the carbon group at groups.io
    [url]https://groups.io/g/carbon

  4. #4

    Join Date
    Jul 2000
    Posts
    471

    Kallitype

    Aaron, Sorry my post was totally off topic . I was refering to the Pt/pd process. have a look at Wynn Whites web site he's doing some interesting things in Van Dyke...wynnwhitephoto.com. Of course Sandy is a master at kallitype and you couldn't find a better source.

  5. #5

    Join Date
    Sep 2003
    Posts
    115

    Kallitype

    Thanks Robert & Sandy. No problem, Robert! I find the instruction on Sandy's website very simple & in clear steps that I'm now considering using his recommended chemical and following the procedures. Thanks!

  6. #6

    Join Date
    Sep 2003
    Posts
    115

    Kallitype

    Sandy (or anyone for that matter), I've read your article quite carefully. Since I'm a complete dummy in chemistry, I hope you do not mind the following questions:-

    I think I've read somewhere that the use of a yellow bulb is fine, but I'll ask if a strong 60 watt about 6 feet away is too strong for mixing of sensitizer and also viewing the prints during process?

    Would it be a problem to leave developed prints in a tray of water after clearing, and tone & fix them all later?

    How does one find out if his tap water is alkaline, neutral or slightly acidic? And what can one do about it if the water for 1st rinse is alkaline?

    How critical is agitation in the different solutions? Actually I think agitation is inevitable since I believe the paper would tend to float to the top (my experience with salt paper) and one needs to push the paper down with a tong.

  7. #7

    Join Date
    Sep 2003
    Location
    South Carolina
    Posts
    5,506

    Kallitype

    Aaron,

    To answer some of your questions.

    “I think I've read somewhere that the use of a yellow bulb is fine, but I'll ask if a strong 60 watt about 6 feet away is too strong for mixing of sensitizer and also viewing the prints during process?”

    A regular incandescent bulb placed at 6 feet is probably ok for mixing the sensitizer, coating the paper and developing the print. However, don’t dry you paper with that kind of light as it will likely cause some fog. My own procedure is to work with a very strong (100 watt) yellow bug light for mixing the sensitizer and coating the paper, and then I dry the paper in the dark.I turn the yellow bug light on for placing the negative and paper in contact for exposure, and leave it on until the paper hits the developer. As soon as it hits the developer it loses its light sensitivity so at that point I turn on a strong white light for evaluating the print during processing.

    “Would it be a problem to leave developed prints in a tray of water after clearing, and tone & fix them all later?”

    I don’t think this would be a problem, assuming 1) the period of time is not great and 2) no strong light hits the print. However, I think it is a beter approach to carry the processing from start to end without stopping.

    “How does one find out if his tap water is alkaline, neutral or slightly acidic? And what can one do about it if the water for 1st rinse is alkaline?”

    You can check the pH with pH tabs. Most chemical supply stores carry them.

    If the tap water is very alkaline you can an acid (citric acid, vinegar, acetic acid) to a tray of water to make it acidic. Just soak the print in the water for a few minutes (no running water) then transfer directly to the clearing bath. This procedure will make your clearing bath go bad sooner than if you used a running water rinse, but it prevents staining.
    For discussion and information about carbon transfer please visit the carbon group at groups.io
    [url]https://groups.io/g/carbon

  8. #8

    Join Date
    Sep 2003
    Posts
    115

    Kallitype

    Sandy, thanks for taking the time to answer the questions. It's been very helpful. Really appreciate it!

  9. #9

    Kallitype

    Wow Sandy, great article! Thanks so much for taking the time to share your knowledge on the Kallitype process :-)

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